I pulled the head off of mine a few mons back. If folks recall, I broke 7 of 8
tops of the outer valve springs and one inner. I am fixing that and checking
geometry.
I do have oversized valves and 89 bore, and I found my Payen A330 gasket was
burnt where the gasket was not ground back. My sleeves are not ground back as
well.
Can you grind back the copper Payen gasket with no issues? I will be
feathering back the sleeves as well.
Also, does anyone know the correct valve spring height?
Thx
Ty
Sent from my iPad
(Please excuse any errors or typos)
On Nov 15, 2012, at 7:41 PM, Joe Alexander <n197tr4@cs.com> wrote:
> Ditto...Using Payen for several years now and has been one less thing to
worry
> about.
>
>
>
>
> Joe Alexander
>
> Subject: Re: [Fot] trt 3/4 head gasket
>
>
> Like Tony we use a stock Payen gasket notched to fit the larger valve with
no
> problem. My take is that one must make sure the head & block are flat &
true
> &
> properly installed.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Nov 15, 2012, at 12:36 AM, Tony Drews <tony@tonydrews.com> wrote:
>
>> I use a stock composite gasket and will get a season out of it. I was at
> about 0.175 milled, am now at 0.130 after my last head gasket problem
turned
> out to be a collapsing combustion chamber in the head problem. I don't
have
> giant valves (they clear the 87 mm liners), so I notched the liner to match
> the "mickey ear" of the stock gasket so there was something supporting it
on
> one side in the pocket that disappeared. I put the seam side against the
> liner then.
>>
>> Tony Drews
>>
>> At 12:18 PM 11/10/2012, KENMUN@aol.com wrote:
>>> anyone having success with the stock composite head gasket on a milled
>>> head. my head has been milled .150" and the intake valve pockets are
gone.
> i'm
>>> not having much luck with the steel gasket.
>>> thanks, ken m. tr 3 vintage racer.
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