Jim & Bill,
I have a TR3B that had the residual pressure valve installed originally. A
couple years ago I removed it, cleaned the internals and reinstalled the
valve, with the internal components. It had always been in there as far as
I remember but this was the first time I disassembled it for cleaning and
inspection. I think, more than anything else, I was just curious as to what
the insides looked like and how it worked since there is no detail in the
books.
Since that time I have noticed that when I stop on a slight grade. I can
take my foot off the brake and the car does not drift back unless I wait for
maybe a minute or so. It was clear that it was indeed working as it was
supposed to but I was also concerned, as you were, that my pads would wear
quickly. Plus I had a slight squeal that I couldn't get rid of.
After reading in several different places about how it was not worth having,
I removed the internals. Immediately I found that I had to pump the brake
on EACH application to get it to "be solid" again. This happened even after
a short drive. I thought I had some air in the lines but, after bleeding,
got the same result. I then decided to put the internals back in and the
cushy petal problem went away immediately.
The message is that keeping the internals in the valve worked for me. This
may not be the case in every car but I found that I prefer the firm petal to
the pumping, and I can live with the slight squeal. As a side note, I plan
to change to the Toyota caliper setup soon anyway.
Mike Hado
TTR - Houston
-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces@autox.team.net]On
Behalf Of William Dewar
Sent: Monday, February 06, 2012 5:41 PM
To: Jim Gray; Friends of triumph
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR4 front brakes
Hello Jim,
TR4's and TR3's with the girling brake systems had residual pressure valves
in the front brake piping. It was there to limit the pad knockback and
resulting low initial brake pedal. It had limited success on street cars and
very little on racecars with wider tires and higher cornering loads. Also
due to corrosion and years of use most now either don't work at all or hold
back too much pressure. Best to eliminate it and go with the uprated front
spindles and hubs. Supposedly some TR4A's also had them,never saw any on
TR6's. It could cause fast pad and rotor wear. On TR4's it was mounted
inline on the 5way brake junction right front.
Bill DeWar
NJTA
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Gray" <toodamnfunky@comcast.net>
To: "Friends of triumph" <fot@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, February 05, 2012 6:02 PM
Subject: [Fot] TR4 front brakes
> This may be a stupid question but here goes anyway. My front pads have
> always drag some when on the stands.
>
> Should the rotors turn freely or is some drag normal? I seem to use up
more
> than my share of pads & rotors.
>
> Thanks as always
>
>
>
> Jim G
>
> Oh, I use porterfields and EBC blues
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