I'm assuming we're talking race car with a balance bar between two
master cylinders. When I used to work on Formula Fords we would lift
the car off the ground and make an adjustable device that pushed on the
brake pedal. We would adjust that so that the brakes dragged
significantly but didn't lock up. Then, we would adjust the bias bar so
that turning the front and rear wheels felt pretty much the same. After
that, it was up to the driver. These cars have 4 wheel discs and about
35% weight on the front and 65% on the rear so under braking with the
forward weight transfer, they are about 50-50 and this technique works.
I tried doing the same thing with my Spitfire and found it moved the
bias way too far to the back. Because of the weight balance and weight
transfer under braking, this technique won't work on our cars. One
thing I noticed was I was wearing out rear brakes way faster than the
fronts and having to adjust them a lot. I've since moved the balance
bar a lot farther to the front and balanced the wear front to rear. I
think watching wear patterns is a good check.
If you can find a straight test location, you want to get the fronts to
lock up slightly before the rears. On my Spitfire (with rear drums), I
don't think it is possible to get the rears to lock up first.
Jim Norlin
On 7/17/2011 7:43 PM, sherry robyn wrote:
> On a TR6, I was wondering the best way to be sure that I am getting the
> appropriate braking from my front and rear brakes and especially so my rear
> brakes aren't taking a free ride. Any thoughts on this would be appreciated.
> Jim in Folsom, CA
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