Thanks Bill, that procedure is just what I was looking for. I thought there
was probably a way to do it but didn't know how. Much appreciated. When
Ryan comes out this week we will try that.
We are using a standard points and coil ignition system. I'm starting to
think that we should change to another type after spending a good part of
this afternoon reading up on ignition systems on the internet. I amazed
myself again at how much I didn't know! The coil charge time at 6000 RPM
probably isn't enough to really saturate the core in the coil. At the very
least I think I will increase the dwell on the points from the "nominal" 58
degrees to around 65 degrees. Seeing as how the engine is hardly ever under
2000 RPM I'm not too worried about over heating the coil at low RPM with too
much charge current. I've got more research to do. What is on my mind
though is that "back in the day", before there was electronic ignitions, I'm
pretty sure folks were running 4 cylinder engines way past 6000 RPM with
good results. Maybe they did some stuff I'm not aware of to accomplish
that.
Anybody on the list have any ideas on that?
One last point, I just measured a standard TR4 coil primary resistance and
it is 1.5 ohms. The 3 or 4 Lucas Sport coils I've measured are all about
3.0 ohms. I don't understand that either.
Tim
From: BillDentin@aol.com [mailto:BillDentin@aol.com]
Sent: Monday, June 20, 2011 3:54 PM
To: timmurph@fastbytes.com
Cc: fot@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] Blackhawk Farms, Success with some problems
In a message dated 06/20/2011 2:30:28 PM Central Daylight Time,
timmurph@fastbytes.com writes:
<<< We did check the
resistance of the coil (Lucas Sport) just as I came off the track on
Saturday and the primary was a little high, 3.5 ohms instead of the normal
2.9 3.0. >>>
Tim...I am not sure what ignition system you are using, but some electronic
systems do not like a 'Sport Coil'. They much prefer a standard coil.
<<< I was getting some wheel spin off of some of the corners
which was a little odd as we have a Detroit Locker. Is there a way to check
out the Locker by manually turning the wheels with the car off of the
ground? And, is there anything to check by taking the cover off of the diff
and looking in? >>
Tim...Yes:
1. Get both rear wheels off the ground and completely free;
2. Place transmission in gear;
3. With an assistant on the other side, start the test by rotating
both wheels in a forward direction as far as possible (normally both wheels
will be stopped after rotating only a few inches);
4. With one person firmly holding the right wheel forward (against
the stop), rotate the left wheel rearward while listening for a regular
indexing or clicking sound. (the right wheel must be held firmly against
the stop or the left wheel will not disengage freely).
5. Now do the reverse and rotate both wheels rearward as far as
possible (again both wheels will be stopped after rotating only a few
inches);
6. Again with one person firmly holding the right wheel rearward
(against the stop), rotate the left wheel forward while listening for a
regular indexing or clicking sound. (the right wheel must be held firmly
against the stop or the left wheel will not disengage freely).
7. REPEAT steps 3, 4, 5, and 6 only this time holding the left wheel
firm during each process;
Bill Dentinger
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