You certainly can use just a fluid bias--lots of race cars use them. They seem
to work better on more modern cars. It's really a matter of what you get used
to. Fluid bias adjusters restrict the fluid to the rear brakes, so you
generally use a lot more pedal pressure to stop. I used one in the Rabbit I
raced, and it was finicky compared to a bias bar, but it worked. I think I
fiddled with it a lot more than I do with a bias bar, but that might just be
me.
On Feb 14, 2010, at 5:54 AM, Mark Vanlake wrote:
> Still a rookie racer with my 72 TR6. My car has been upgraded numerous
times
> from the suggestions and insights provided by the FOT members. My current
> question is, does anyone use the stock brake setup? I mean the Power
booster
> and single master cylinder unit. I have upgraded the pads and rear brake
> cylinders with the larger Lockheed units, and added a brake bias to limit
> pressure to the rears. It seems that if you can get the wheels to lock up,
> you have more then enough braking power-correct? I haven't got to the level
> where braking deep into corners is a major concern for obvious reasons.
>
> I
> guess what I'm after is, what are the, 'REAL" benefits, if any, of the duel
> master brake units with an adjuster bar placed between the two, that a
fluid
> bias cannot provide? I agree the duel units add a great racing look, but is
it
> really worth the cost and effort to convert?
>
>
> "Experience is that marvelous
> thing that enables you to recognize a mistake when you make it again"
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