Okay group...I'm going to add another variable to the formula. This past week I
had two new flat tappet engines to break-in; an 87mm TR3 engine and a '69 Vette
with a 383 stroker in a four bolt main block with roller rockers but a flat
tappet cam. So I drive my happy butt to my Chevy dealer and buy two bottles ( 1
pint each) of EOS at $10.00 a pint. Has anyone else on the list read the
instructions on the bottle? They tell you to pour the contents of the bottle
over the bearings, cam, lifters, rockers, etc. They then throw into the
equation that EOS is not to be used as an oil additive. HELLO, what did I just
do? The only thing I can figure (sarcasm here folks) is that if I pour in the
EOS first, then the oil, the EOS isn't an oil additive, the oil is an EOS
additive! Are they trying to tell me not to use it during oil changes? Should I
only run it during break-in? Are they only playing a terrible hoax on us meant
to suck the cash from the pockets of simple minded people. (
I resemble the comment).
Thanks - Ed
Chris Kantarjiev <cak@dimebank.com> wrote:
> This is why I'm still confused. Is the synthetic oil capable of
> withstanding the load by itself or must it have the Zn & P. Hearing from
> lots of folks raving about NO wear found on tare down after extended run
> time.
All oils, synthetic or otherwise, have Zn & P in them. Always have.
Different brands have different additive packages, and thus provide
different results.
> Have all ZN & P containing oils been made unlawful for street
> applications?
> On vehicles with OR without a catalyst?
Nothing has been made illegal. The EPA specifications for the named
service levels have changed, and oil manufacturers that want to
meet the latest service level (SM, or CJ-4 for diesels), are reducing
the amount of Zn and P, as described at
http://www.lnengineering.com/oil.html
Flat tappet engines want higher levels (at least 1000 ppm, perhaps
at least 1200 ppm). So look for an oil that has that much. Or
use GM's EOS to supplement the levels in the oil that you love.
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