Skat makes a Chevy rod in stock TR4 length (6.25 in) with a 2.1 crankpin
($459 with ARP 2000 bolts at www.flatlanderracing.com). This is a good
choice if you want a stock length rod. Early SBC's used a 2.0 crankpin,
and there is a special bearing for using a 2.1 rod on a 2.0 crank. So
you can use a stock crank and have it turned down to 2.0 or if it's a
billet have it made with 2.1 crankpins. The only change needed to the
piston is to change the wrist pin diameter to .927 (stock TR4 is 0.875).
I like the rods for the current Ford 5.4L engine. The crankpin diameter
is the same as a Triumph, 2.086 in. It is 6.657 in long, so the piston
compression height must be reduced by 0.407 to about 1.59. This should
make for a shorter skirt and ligher weight piston. The wrist pin
diameter is 0.865. If you are custom ordering pistons from Wiseco,
there should not be any additional charge for the pistons.
For those that really want to be "out there", there is a Skat 7 inch rod
with 2.0 crankpin made for the old Ford flathead V8. These rods are
very lightweight compared to the modern V8 rods. The compression height
would go to about 1.25 inches.
When shopping for rods you have to check the width of the bottom
compared to the bore. If it is too wide, you'd have to install the
pistons from the bottom. The Skat SBC rods are about 0.030 wider than an
87mm bore, but it is not a problem to remove a small amount of
material. I believe the 5.4L Ford rods will go through an 87mm bore
with no problems.
What is the view of the various clubs on these issues? I believe CVAR
doesn't even sanction billet cranks, but I believe they may be changing
that rule. I think longer than stock rods are also a no-no, but then
again, who tears down engines.
Larry Young
Kramer, Robert wrote:
>It would be great if someone that knows what is needed could coordinate
>a piston and rod order, spliting sets of V8 rods etc. I talked to a
>machinist that seemed to think a 6 cyl. Chevy rod was preferable but I
>don't remember the details.
>
>Bob Kramer
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