I had heavy Weber carbs flooding without the soft mounting kit. After
installing these rubber spacers the car has good idle speed and no problems on
high reves with broken off floats. Don't forget the springs under the nuts.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Henry Frye" <henry@henryfrye.com>
To: <fot@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, May 06, 2005 2:21 PM
Subject: Soft Mounting SU's
> Here's what I know about the subject.
>
> The Weber soft mount kits can easily be adapted to work just fine. There
> are different Weber soft mount kits out there. One type is a plastic block
> with two grooves cut in it and two O-rings. I am pretty sure they will work
> just fine, but they look a bit fiddley to install.
>
> Here's a picture:
>
> http://aptfast.com/Images_Parts/Weber_Carburetors/Soft_Mounts.jpg
>
> Then you have the trick one piece item, the tabs to attach to the studs are
> metal. Sort of looks like one big fat O-ring formed around a metal
> retainer. As Joe B says, elongate the holes so they slip over two studs,
> and Bob's your uncle. Well, he is after you replaced all the studs on the
> intake manifold with longer ones...
>
> Half way down, a picture of the one piece item:
>
> http://www.rdent.com/pages/carblink.html
>
> Then you have two different kinds of isolators for between the nyloc nuts
> and carb flange. Metal springs and hard rubber. The link above shows the
> hard rubber kind. I seem to remember hearing the metal spring kind is
> better, but they fatigue and do not last forever.
>
> One soft mount kit has the two big bits that go between the carb and the
> intake manifold, but only comes with 4 little isolators for under the
> nylocs. If you buy the trick kind from R Dent, everything is a la carte.
> Obviously, you are going to need 8 isolators for under the nylocs, but I'd
> recommend buying a bunch of extras, both the spring kind and the hard
> rubber kind. I use some of both kinds on my setup.
>
> I can't say how much these helped me, as I installed them for the first
> time with a new set of carbs. All I can say is I'm not having much in the
> way of carb issues at the moment. ;-)
>
> At 06:54 PM 05/05/2005 -0700, Bill Babcock wrote:
>
> >You want the carb to float, and since it's relatively lightweight it will
> >have it's on resonance points, completely different from the engine. On
> >Peyote I've found I can create flat spots by tightening the manifold bolts
> >too much. Keep them loose and they won't leak, tighten them up and they do.
> >Weird, but it makes sense. I make sure I have .030" between the turns of the
> >spring washers, which have three turns in the setup I use. Much less than
> >that and bad stuff starts happening. Much more and I don't compress the
> >O-rings and I get leaks.
> >
> >
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: "Joe Boruch" <jaboruch@netzero.net>
> >To: <BillB@bnj.com>
> >Cc: <garygret@sbcglobal.net>; <vinttr4@geneseo.net>; <fot@autox.team.net>
> >Sent: Thursday, May 05, 2005 9:09 AM
> >Subject: RE: float bowls on HS6 carbs
> >
> >
> > > Yes, you just need to elongate 2 of the holes for the plate that gets
> > > sandwiched between the carbs and manifold. Also longer studs to use
> > > nylock nuts will be needed. My SUs are set up that way. Joe(B)
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