I doubt anyone would have anything but a theoretical number. You can very
rarely see small changes like that on a dyno. But that's okay, a really good
racing motor is a combination of the big things that you can see on a dyno,
and all the little things that add a horsepower here, a little more
reliability there. Gilmer belts probably do both if all the rest of the
stuff is right.
I agree with you completely about block pressure. As soon as boiling
transitions from nucleate boiling (where small bubbles form, but collapse as
they leave the surface to bulk boiling (sheets of bubbles), the heat
transfer of a surface drops precipitously. That's a function of both
temperature and pressure. A few pounds of block pressure will make a big
difference in failure of the critical cooling areas, and that definitely is
the #4 cylinder.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-fot@Autox.Team.Net [mailto:owner-fot@Autox.Team.Net] On Behalf
Of Henry Frye
Sent: Monday, January 31, 2005 8:37 AM
To: fot@Autox.Team.Net
Subject: RE: Gilmer Belts/Pulley; Oil Cooler
At 08:06 AM 01/31/2005 -0800, Bill Babcock wrote:
>British Frame and Engine (Ken Gillanders) has a nice narrow belt
>conversion that works very well. Has an aluminum reverse tophat pulley
>that doesn't toast your bearings or require relocation of the belt, and
>includes a harmonic damper. It's not Gilmer, but it works very well.
I concur, the BF&E setup works great for me.
Does anyone have any real evidence, (like dyno numbers) on how much HP is
gained going to a Gilmer setup?
Another thought, I am not sure I want my water pump going any slower. I
convinced myself that the coolant pressure in the block is one of those
"more is better" things. At least my #4 piston thinks so.
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