Just a weird suggestion: From a practical standpoint, if you're changing
master cylinders it's worthwhile to make one of your master cylinder sizes
the same as the clutch so you're likely to have a rebuild kit when you want
it. For that rather random reason I use a 3/4 for the front and clutch and a
5/8 for the rear (of course this is TR3). I'm tempted to go to 3/4 all
around and do all the adjustment with bias, but it's not worth the work.
If you're feeling cheap (and I always am this time of year) you can just
have your cylinder honed to the right size and then stamp the outside. If
you have a good shop do it your cylinder will be a lot straighter and
smoother than anything that comes from Girling.
Bill Babcock
Babcock & Jenkins
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-fot@Autox.Team.Net [mailto:owner-fot@Autox.Team.Net] On Behalf
Of John Kipping
Sent: Monday, December 06, 2004 2:45 PM
To: dale oesterle; fot@Autox.Team.Net
Subject: Re: spitfire brakes
There is no need to touch the rear brakes, however the GT6 calipers require
a bigger bore master cylinder. A single line set up is easy, you go from the
5/8" to a .7". Tandem set ups are more of a problem as strictly speaking you
need a GT6 tandem master (68-72) but I have been told that a Spitfire tandem
master is acceptable and the pedal doesn't have too much travel.
John Kipping
----- Original Message -----
From: "dale oesterle" <dale.oesterle@sbcglobal.net>
To: <fot@Autox.Team.Net>
Sent: Tuesday, December 07, 2004 4:44 AM
Subject: spitfire brakes
> Folks: If I swap the spitfire front brakes for GT6 front brakes (and
upright and spindles), do I need to changed the valving in the front master
cylinders? Do I also need to change the rear drums or can I stay with the
spitfire drums? Has anyone else done this? If so, any tricks? Dale
Oesterle
>
>
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