The next time you want to torque up and the castelated holes don't line up
just right, just work the flat of the nut down a few thou on a piece of 180
grit wet and dry paper using apiece of heavy glass or a
micro-flat to keep the nut surface square. You work it down a couple thou
then check to see if you can get the torque spec and the hole lined up, if
not, do it again. It sounds like using a lathe would be easier but it really
more difficult as you must take it in a and out of the chuck several times
to get it just right on the mark. Maybe sounds dumbbell, but, its works.
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Price" <jprice1@txcyber.com>
To: "Friends of Triumph" <fot@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, September 08, 2003 8:39 PM
Subject: TR6 Axle Mod
> Amici:
>
> Those guys have a good idea!
>
> This is the same fix used on MGTCs to strengthen the front axles. As the
TC
> was manufactured they put the spacers in at the factory, but just left
them
> flopping around in there. They didn't serve any purpose. The fix is to put
> shims between the spacers and the bearings to eliminate the clearance. I
just
> did a tapered roller bearing conversion on my TC and on the advice of Bob
> Grunau, TC racing guru from Toronto, I not only used the spacers, I had a
> machine shop shim them to zero clearance on the bearings and torqued the
hub
> nut to 85#. In my case we used Small-block Chevy valve spring shims. The
> problem described with the TR-6 brakes doesn't exist on the TC or any
other
> car with front drum brakes, but the TC's axles are not as strong as they
need
> to be and the spacer setup provides a lot of additional strenghth. The
> addition of the spacers and elimination of the clearance between the
spacers
> and bearings serves to effectively increase the diameter (and thus, the
> strength) of the stub axle. However, while the original design requires
only
> that the axle nut be tightened and then backed off a flat to get the
cotter
> pin in, the spacer and shim fix requires that the nut be torqued to 75-80
> ft/lbs. In order for this design to work, the nut has to be really tight,
with
> zero clearance between the bearings and the spacers. Bob Grunau up in
Toronto
> is the guru for this and just last month I set my TC up the same way.
Since
> every axle is slightly different, I used a machine shop to set the spacers
for
> me. The left and right spacer distances are not the same.
>
> I must confess, I only went to 75# because that's as high as my torque
wrench
> would go. I did have to back off just a teensy bit to get the cotter pin
in.
> Tightening the nut further to install the pin would have put me way over
85#
> and the machine shop guy was concerned that 50+ year old British steel
> wouldn't take it.
>
> These guys have a good fix. It makes sense and is a proven approach. I'm
just
> going to Griffith hubs and axles on my TVR.
>
> See ya' at VIR.
>
> John Price
> College Station, Texas
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