I have a TR6 that I did a lot of work to this year. I got it to the
dyno last week and dialed in these maximum results [though I think there
is definitely more there though more tweaking with the Weber jets].
Maximum HP at the wheels: 158 at 5500 and over 150 from 3000-6000 RPM]
Torque 170 at 4800 [pretty peaky, but over 150 from 3000-6500]
My modifications include:
Head ported and valves radiused, milled to 3.30 [12:1 or so]
[PErformance Automotive, Tacoma WA]
Heavy duty springs
Tubular push rods
1.55:1 roller rockers [the above all from TSI]
Triple Weber Carbs and Cannon Manifold from British Parts NW [ended up
with 140 mains, 60 idle jets]
K&N air filters
Electromotive HMX crank fired electronic ignition [no more dizzy, and
knob tunable advance at 1000, 3000 and 8000 rpm [can roll off or retard
linearly from 3000-8000, but doing so with initial set at 16 degrees,
3000 at 32 degrees and 4 degrees of rolloff lowered HP to 148, so set
8000 at 0 change from 3000 -- am using 101 Octane racing fuel].
Jet Coated 6:1 header
2.5" single exhaust to a Flowmaster 50 series exhaust and Monza
Resonator [Summit] and local muffler shop
Oil Cooler
Balanced engine
.03 over pistons
ARP head, rod and crank bolts
Flywheel lightened to 22 lbs [wish I'd seen this month's Grassroots
Motorsports first and read Vizzard's article on weight -- 12 lbs
flywheel and smaller diameter clutch = same as 320 lbs weight off the
car]
Electric Fan
Mallory fuel pump [and battery in the trunk]
Oil Cooler
Tilton .75 dual master cylinders [with necessary balance bar welded to
the brake pedal] -- think these are too large as pedal pressure is high
Herman Van Den Akker Toyota 5 speed with annular throwout bearing
Goodparts 300Z viscous limited slip kit [locally sourced 4.08:1 diff]
--gearing change made for 112 mph at 6500 on the dyno so will need that
5th gear at Pacific Raceways
I use 16x7 Panasports with 205x50 Kuhmo Eksta V700's. Have tube shocks
in rear, a rear anti-roll bar and stiffer front anti-roll. Stiffest
front shocks I could buy and fairly stiff rear springs, Adjustable SPAX
up front, KYB's in the rear. Nylatron bushings. Toyota 4 Pot brakes to
vented rotors and Carbotech Panther Plus pads in front [bought the Kit
on EBAy from the Canadian], 7/8" rear brake cylinders to Carbotech
Kealated pads in the rear with Nissan 280Z aluminum finned drums. I
have lowered the spring perch in front about a quarter of an inch.
Frame is about 2.5" off ground in front.
I have aluminum front hubs on order.
Am investigating going to Nissan stub axles in the rear [anyone have any
TR experience with this -- how to fasten the bearing carrier to the
trailing arm is the issue.
First time on a track last weekend was good and bad. Good because the
car ran really well [and sounds awesome], bad because my shifter decided
to depart from the housing leaving me only 3rd gear during my second
session. Have new parts to fix the problem -- thank you Edward Hamer for
the spring retainer and Herman for the non obtanium shifter cap.
Car is very neutral, though I am pretty good at going too fast in some
turns, and quite bad at catching it, so I did manage one spin [at least
I now can catch those in time to keep from killing]. Hard to tell how
much faster it and I am. Know my times at Pacific last year were about
2 minutes flat. Am going there next weekend, so we will see what we can
do not [presuming I learn to keep it on the road at 5b -- spun twice
there last year].
Hope to get enough lap times/driving experience/training this year to
build a legal, competitive 6 for SOVERN vintage racing next year. [by
by tranny, diff and HMX], hello A type overdrive, electronic distributor
and Salisbury 4:11 expensive rear end, and of course the 16" rims [will
keep them all in this car and build another I think]
Chuck
[demime 0.99d.1 removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of
chuck.arnold.vcf]
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