Have you tried or considered additional shrouding around the engine?
I have found the following to be significant in reducing engine temperatures:
1. Aluminum radiator
2. Cleaned Aluminum Radiator
3. surge tank
4. oil cooler
5. shrouding
6. retarding the timing (boooooooo hissssss)
7. lifting the right foot (booooooooo hissssssssss)
8. Putting the electric fan behind the radiator
9. eliminating the electric fan altogether
10. reducing the engine friction
a. before my last engine rebuild the temperature was rising in every race to
where I would indeed have to raise the right foot.
b. When we pulled the engine we found significant friction between the parts
c. The rebuilt engine even under full load ran cooler
11. Watch the drafting
Those might be a little out of order on the priorities but food for thought
Bill B
-----Original Message-----
From: rgk [mailto:rgk@flash.net]
Sent: Wednesday, February 26, 2003 1:40 PM
To: Russ Moore; 'Larry Young'; fot@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Head Sealing Problem?
Larry,
I don't know what the norm is, and I hope others that do pipe up, but I
can't do a 20 minute race running balls to the wall without reaching 220
degrees. This alone may be putting water in the bottle and it has become
something I have gotten used to. I have tried the gas-tester route, and the
radiator pressure tester and come up clean. With no exhaust to pump the
water out, I believe it's simply the thermodynamics of water pressure
overcoming the cap. 15 minute races are perfect, but the heat is rising to
the limit at the end. All I have to do is take my foot out of it for a few
laps and it cools down to around 200. OTOH, I can't accept having to back
off to cool it down anymore and losing places to guys I should beat, so I'm
going to get an aluminum radiator very soon. I think this may be the
solution.
Bob Kramer
rgk@flash.net
----- Original Message -----
From: "Russ Moore" <rem@cbord.com>
To: "'Larry Young'" <cartravel@pobox.com>; <fot@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, February 26, 2003 11:19 AM
Subject: RE: Head Sealing Problem?
> One of three things.
> Not sealing at the head/cylinder area; not sealing at the base (figure 8
> gaskets) or a fracture either in the head, block base or in a liner.
>
> Russ Moore
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-fot@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-fot@autox.team.net]On
> Behalf Of Larry Young
> Sent: Wednesday, February 26, 2003 12:05 PM
> To: fot@autox.team.net
> Subject: Head Sealing Problem?
>
>
> I'm trying to figure out what's going on with my TR3 engine. Ever since
> I rebuilt the engine, I've had a problem with it blowing water out into
> the overflow bottle. In a 20 minute race, it will blow about a quart
> into the overflow. It's also running hot. I'm not getting any water in
> the oil. I'm running a solid copper head gasket and used a block sealer
> after I installed the head. I also pressure tested the block and all
> was fine. After the first race weekend, I checked for combustion leaks
> into the radiator using a kit which has a dye in it. The dye is
> supposed to change color if combustion gases are present in the cooling
> system. I couldn't tell for sure whether it was changing color or not,
> so I retorqued the head and treated it again with block sealer. I did
> have to turn the nuts to get the torque back to 100 lb and one stud felt
> a bit squishy, like it didn't want to tighten up. I gather from resent
> posts, that this is abnormal. It continues to blow water out the
> overflow. I think I've got a head gasket that leaks only under load,
> i.e. race conditions. However, others I've talked to aren't so sure.
> I'm thinking I need to pull the head to try and figure out what's going
> on. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
> Thanks,
> Larry Young
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