I've had this problem (surprise surprise). What I did is install a petcock
into the top of the thermo housing as you suggested, then pull the pipe plug
at the back of the head, ,where the heater tube originally fitted, screw a
hose fitting lightly into, t he head, slip a piece of heater hose about a
foot long over the fitting, slip a funnel into the hose, open the petcock,
pour water into the engine trough the funnel arrangment, when the fluid
comes out of the petcock, close that then when it overflows at the back or
stops filling, quickly unscrew the fitting and repelace the plug. Worked
like a charm for YEARS. I would also jack up the chassis from the back to
give the high point even a little more draft. Actually you can do this just
as easy by just holding the hose against the cylinder head without a
fitting, then replace the plug whe it stops filllling. A LOT less
complicated than it sounds.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jack W. Drews" <vinttr4@geneseo.net>
To: <fot@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, March 26, 2002 10:54 AM
Subject: TR4 water outlet
> I'm working on another limited run project to solve a TR2-3-4 problem
> and I'd like some feedback to indicate how many folks might be
> interested in this.
>
> The cooling system plumbing on our TR's presents some challenges for
> tidy installation. It seems that any aftermarket or special radiator
> ends up with the filler opening lower than the aluminum water outlet on
> top of the head. This causes us to fit expansion tanks and the attendant
> hoses, or to put a petcock in the top of the aluminum outlet, which then
> causes us to wonder if the system is really full.
>
> We're working on a new aluminum water outlet. It would have the radiator
> cap mounted directly on it. The height of the cap would be below the
> highest point of the rocker cover so it should clear the hood okay. We
> will incorporate provisions for the bypass hose, the water temperature
> sender, and the thermostat. So, end result, is a new part that does
> evrything the old part does, but has the radiator cap on it.
>
> We've looked at just modifying the present part, but the material from
> which it is made is really poor and nearly impossible to weld, and most
> of those in existence are quite corroded. We've tried to find a
> currently available part, but cannot find an American part with the same
> bolt pattern.
>
> We don't have a price yet, because it will depend in part on the run
> quantity. Similar parts made in quantities for Chevvies are between $50
> and $75, so ours may cost somewhat more than that.
>
> Would you please email me if you think you would be interested -- I
> won't keep track, I just need a quantity for planning. When the part
> becomes available, I'll send out pricing and ordering info.
>
> Thanks.
>
> --
>
> uncle jack
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