See below
Justin wrote:
> I just skimmed through research materials and found the following. (Some
> doesn't apply to your specific request, but it still might be of interest to
> others.)
> --Justin Wagner
>
> A handy note for TR 4A owners...
> "A good way to get 1/4 degree more negative camber it to reverse the upper
> fulcrum shaft, on which the upper A-arms mount, as it is offset. This shaft
> usually rides with its bulging part to the outside. Reverse it so the bulge
>is
> inside and you'll increase negative camber" Grassroots Motorsports article by
> Tim Suddard
>
> Jim Elbe wrote:
>
> > What's the best way to get some on a TR 4 ??
> > RMVR will not let you change mounting points or use non-standard
> > components. I've read the book about heating and bending the uprights. Is
> > this still the preferred way to go ?? If so can someone recommend a place
> > that knows what they are doing ? Can the uprights only be sent to be done ?
> > Thanks in advance.
> > Jim Elbe
> > TR 4 #223
What Tim Suddard said in GRM must have been true with the springs and spacer
setup
he had at the time but is was different on the chassis I measured. I thought
the TR
community might be interested is a set of actual measurements, made last winter
during the rebuild of Ol' Blue into New Blue.
Conditions: bare chassis, front crossmember 3-3/4" off the ground to simulate
no
spacer and competition springs. Measurements will be somewhat different with
everything assembled and the front suspension loaded, and accuracy is within
what I
could attain, not having an alignment machine:
A-arm length bulge in bulge out
stock +.6 +1.6
.375 short -2.1 -1.0
.500 short -3.0 -2.1
So, with this combination of competition springs and no spacer, reversing the
bulge
direction of the upper trunnion changes the camber by about 1 deg. And, although
one would expect the changes to be linear, they are not because of the angles
involved.
I find that with everything loaded, things change by 1/2 deg (don't ask me why
-- I
don't know -- must be deflection somewhere or everywhere).
Your mileage may vary. These chassis are pretty old and have usually seen lots
of
abuse in their 40 year life. One friend of mine installed upper a-arms shortened
.375 and had to turn one bulge in and one bulge out to get the front wheels
about
right.
Maybe the best way to do all this is to use the system discussed last winter
regarding the setup on Irv Korey's car. I'll let someone else explain that.
--
uncle jack - red, white, and New Blue
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