The interesting thing about castor is that if it is zero, under hard braking
it usually will go to negative and the car will WANDER or SQUIRM sometimes
with vigor. Castor will help the straight line stuff and also increase the
amount of camber on the turn in. When you have too much, you go SMASH
straight ahead into the bales. (small joke).also the steering effort goes up
quite a bit.
----- Original Message -----
From: Jack W. Drews <vinttr4@geneseo.net>
To: <fot@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, August 26, 2000 12:16 PM
Subject: caster angle
> I jsut purchased two TR4 parts cars, both with totally rebuilt front
> suspensions, including lower trunnions.
>
> Curiously, both have the TR3 / early TR4 upper a-arms, early style upper
> ball joints, and zero degree castor lower trunnions. I had never looked
> into this before, but now realize that if TR3's are raced with all
> original parts, they are running with zero degrees castor (which doesn't
> matter to me either way, I'm not trying to start an originality debate
> here).
>
> I understand that castrr helps keep the car going in a straight line --
> but what's the collective wisdom of the list -- should I use these or
> pop for new parts to get the three degrees of castor?
>
> --
>
> TR6 -- 29 and still running
> TR4 -- 39 and being rebuilt
> uncle jack -- down but not out
>
>
>
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