Joe (B),
I have Weber's since a lot of years on my TR 4A. It runs very good.
The car had 143 hp (107 hp on the wheels) and runs good 130 mph. I have
45 DCOE Weber's. These give's the car a good acceleration. 0-60 mph in
under 9 sec.
And this with the 3.7 rear axle ratio. The car take's under 9 litre by
sight seeing tours and 13 - 16 litre of the Nurburgring raceway in
Germany.
The 40 DCOE Weber's are a little economical. By sight seeing not so much
but by the Nurburgring and the engine have 8 hp less.
I have a sprint camshaft fitted 37-63 73-27 degree. In my works car I
have more degree's but it's not yet ready.
The great advance is that the Weber's once more fitted, you can they
forget for many years.
Carsten
jaboruch wrote:
>
> Jack, Thanks for the input. It looks like I will stay away from the 2 in.
> carbs, and either get some unmodified carbs, go back to my H6 carbs, or try
> one more time at the HS6's. I had since gotten some good info on fuel flow
> testing that another lister had done with modified HS6 carbs. Any advice on
> keepng the H6 carbs leaking from the float bowl/jet connection? it always
> seemed that no matter what I did, I would get a leak. Also I know that you
> could not run Weber's in SCCA racing, but have you tried any On any TR3/4
> race engines? Most of the people that I race aginst have Webers on their
> Volvos, MGBs, and 240Zs. I'm thinking that I may need to make the jump to
> the Webers just to stay up front. Joe (B)
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Jack Wheeler <jwheeler@seidata.com>
> To: 'jaboruch' <jaboruch@netzero.net>
> Cc: 'FOT' <fot@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, May 23, 2000 6:16 AM
> Subject: RE: TR3/4 carbs
>
> > Joe, I used the 1 3/4" H6 SU carbs, even though in the last few years I
> > raced, the 2" SU's were legal. Hardy Prentice told me that he and Joe
> > Huffaker spent many hours on the dyno getting the 2" carbs to work
> properly
> > (and then, didn't gain a whole lot of horsepower). Since I didn't have
> the
> > resources to invest in that much dyno time, and the 1 3/4" carbs always
> > worked well on my car, I stuck with the smaller carbs.
> >
> > I used unmodified carb bodies and pistons. I did not use any oil in the
> > dashpots, and in fact, removed the dampers and springs from the dashpots.
> > This is the only way I could get the pistons to go all the way up into
> the
> > dashpots. I used the RB needles and 34 degrees of ignition timing. We
> set
> > the jet adjustments on the dyno using exhaust temperatures. Started rich,
> > then kept leaning them out until the exhaust temps got up to about 1400
> > degrees, then richened them back up just a tad. Also, if you use 34
> > degrees of advance, you need to use very good fuel, and make sure your
> > timing marks, pointer and timing light are very accurate!
> >
> > I used 4 lbs. of fuel pressure, measured at the fuel manifold on the
> > firewall. From the manifold, I had separate fuel lines for each carb.
> > Once we got everything set on the dyno, I measured the distance from the
> > fuel bridge to the top of the jet in each carb with a dial caliper. When
> I
> > rebuilt the carbs, I would go back to this same setting. I almost never
> > had any trouble with the carbs - rebuilt them about every other year.
> >
> > Good Luck!
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: jaboruch [SMTP:jaboruch@netzero.net]
> > Sent: Tuesday, May 23, 2000 12:08 AM
> > To: Jack Wheeler
> > Subject: TR3/4 carbs
> >
> > Jack, a while back, there was a thread on the FOT list about SU's, and you
> > said that you had the best results with unmodified carbs. Unfortunately
> my
> > modified HS6 carbs have me pulling my hair out. They are pretty much to
> > what David Vizard recommended in his BLS A series book. The car has no
> top
> > end. When I get over 6000 Rpm's the oxygen sensor goes lean, and exhaust
> > temps go to 1400 deg., and power drops significantly.
> >
> > You noted that carbs out of the box worked the best for you. When you
> were
> > racing were you using 1 3/4 in. carbs, of 2 in.? I have had some people
> > tell me with similar sized engines that 2 in. carb have worked great for
> > them, and others have had problems. I wouldn't mind a set of 45 webers,
> > but they are not in the budget right now. Any suggestions you may have
> > would be appreciated.
> >
> > We coresponded a few months ago about vented front discs. I was able to
> > fit rotors from a v6 Honda Accord to my hubs, along with Wilwood Superlite
> > calipers. They work great. Regards, Joe
> > << File: ATT00000.htm >>
> >
>
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