To make the pads flat as I recommended will solve a lot of knock back
problems of the pads. To test where your brakes are take off a front wheel
and watch the caliper carefully as a assistant applies the brakes HARD. If
you see the caliper squirm around and the then stop moving your pads are
worn uneven and this makes the first portion of the pedal really ineffective
as the pads aren't even contacting the disc hard yet, only taking up the
uneven surface of the pad. I used a dial indicator on the caliper for a
positive test evey time.
----- Original Message -----
From: <N197TR4@cs.com>
To: <brooks@belcotech.com>
Cc: <fot@Autox.Team.Net>
Sent: Tuesday, May 02, 2000 9:09 AM
Subject: One pump braking
> This certainly has the makings of very signficant thread...
>
> We had MGB dual master and encountered the dreaded one pump disease a fair
> amount of the time, for two seasons.
>
> The conversion to the TR6 Motovac unit made most of this go away,
thankfully.
> >From time to time a "one pump" security tap is used following hard turns
at
> Road America, especially after turn 8 followed by a fast run through the
> Carousel. Hard left followed by extended right sweeper.....followed by the
> KINK! (Of course, no one brakes for the KINK)...but security tap is
certainly
> important prior to Canada Corner....unless you want to go to Canada.
>
> I suspect it is also less likely to be a problem with a rotor of original
> spec thickness and new pads installed, keeping the brake piston deep down
in
> it's bore, where it belongs.
>
> Joe Alexander
>
> << I too, have had a loss in braking from a series of hard turns with my
TR3,
> but this was on the AutoX course. A pump almost always restored normal
> braking. It's kind of exciting when the brake pedal just goes down to
the
> floor. =(8^0)
>
> Jack Brooks
> 1960 TR3A
> 1974 Norton 850 Commando
> Hillsdale, NJ
> >>
>
|