Uneven brake pad wear can also give a long pedal more quickly than normal as
the front edge wears fast from debris ane the top wears faster because of
the higher siurface speed of the disc. I used to flatten the pads before
every event by running shell stone in the drill press at high speed and
passing the pad under the stone until all surfaces were again even. MAKES A
HUGE DIFFERENCE. You do need to bed the pads with a few medium hard stops
before they will be bedded again.. By the way if you do this be sure to
wear a really good air filter mask while doing the grinding.----- Original
Message -----
From: Jack Brooks <brooks@belcotech.com>
To: Friends of Triumph <fot@Autox.Team.Net>
Sent: Tuesday, May 02, 2000 8:40 AM
Subject: RE: Wheel bearings
> I too, have had a loss in braking from a series of hard turns with my TR3,
> but this was on the AutoX course. A pump almost always restored normal
> braking. It's kind of exciting when the brake pedal just goes down to the
> floor. =(8^0)
>
> Jack Brooks
> 1960 TR3A
> 1974 Norton 850 Commando
> Hillsdale, NJ
>
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-fot@Autox.Team.Net [mailto:owner-fot@Autox.Team.Net]On
> > Behalf Of BillDentin@aol.com
> > Sent: Tuesday, May 02, 2000 9:51 AM
> > To: n196x@mindspring.com; fot@Autox.Team.Net
> > Subject: Re: Wheel bearings
>
> > Your comments about brake pad drag are interesting. With my TR3, I have
a
> > different sensation, in that after 'curvy' track sections (i.e. the six
or
> > seven turns before the fisheye at Grattan) I have no brakes. I have to
> pump
> > my brakes to 'put the pads back where they belong' before they will
> operate
> > properly.
>
>
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