Bill,
After seeing your reference to stock rods, I am reminded of my experience
the first time I ran my TR4 on the same day I purchased it. One of the rods
let go as I was leaving the grid at less than 4000 RPM. It really did a
number on the engine as I was only able to reuse the intake manifold, carbs,
distributor and water pump. The rest was either bent or broken entirely.
I rounded up two more sets of stock rods and along with the three remaining
originals sent them to J. K. Jackson who has access to an ion bombardment
x-ray machine. Of the 11 rods, only one was worth using. The rest had
numerous stress cracks, mostly in the area of the oil hole in the rod beam
where the first rod had broken. That helped me make my decision to go to
Carillo rods even though I wanted to remain as close to vintage race prep as
possible.
I do still use a prepared stock crank and hold the revs to 6,000. I have
eleven race weekends on the bearings and it is just now indicating a need to
renew them. Most of the longevity I attribute to Glen Efinger's careful
assembly of the (new) engine.
Roger Beasley
'62 TR-4 #75
Cape Coral, FL
----- Original Message -----
From: <WEmery7451@aol.com>
To: <fot@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, April 28, 2000 9:37 PM
Subject: Bolt Torquing
> Dear FOT,
>
> I rediscovered Kas's seminar on rod bolt torquing. I did use the higher
> torques with Molly grease on the Carillo rods. I am in the process of
> building a spare engine using magnafluxed checked, balanced, glassed
peened,
> stock rods and bolts. I probably should go to the stronged bolts, higher
> torques, and reboring the rod hole (or else use Loctite). In the 60's,
they
> were using some high grade, aircraft cap screws for rod bolts, and
torquing
> them to 100 lbs. Any sugestions, rejections, or insults are welcome.
>
> I ordered by electronic mail "Prepare to Win" by Carrol Smith as suggested
by
> Greg Solow. (I better load my shotgun. There is some Lawyor nut running
> around my area shooting people.)
>
|