With regard to the upper A arm conversion: You will need to shim the
position of the internal threaded portion. A corresponding length of 3/4 x
3/4 x 1/8 angle will put the new CL in line with the old CL. Both are
welded at angles. Best to keep the lower A arm assembly intact, install the
shortened uppers, position the angle and the threaded socket with heim
joint in place at it's mid adjustment, set your suspension, tack weld the
angle then the socket, then, finally, remove all for final welding. Yep,
we did this in the paddock last year.
The Z car drums need to be opened up at the hub center a little, maybe
.100". The slight difference in stud spacing is minimal, a small burr to
open the stud hole slightly is all that is required.
The big pproblem with the Z drums is the required removal of about .150" of
the back of the drum. Or grind the backing plate (bad choice.) On a lathe,
the fins can break if you try to turn the drum, An abrasive sander if
better, but will take several belts, and a lot of cool=down time. But a
mill..???....
Sempre Triumphi ... or something like that...
#37
.
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From: R. John Lye[SMTP:rjl6n@virginia.edu]
Sent: Thursday, June 25, 1998 2:03 PM
To: Will, Dale; 'fot@autox.team.net'
Subject: RE: adjustable upper TR-3/4 a arm brackets
At 02:40 PM 6/25/98 -0700, Will, Dale wrote:
>About two years ago there was a feature in a Brit mag about a TR-4
restored
>as a club project and it mentioned using some new fangled adjustable upper
a
>arm brackets. The camber on my 3a has always been a little fishy even
after
>a frame shop messed with it. Does anyone know anything about these
>adjustable brackets?
I don't know about any commercial ones, but I converted my A-arms
to adjustable heim jointed arms several years ago. We did a similar
conversion to Chip Bond's car at the SCCA Runoffs last year.
Basically, you need to cut off the end of the arm where it attaches
to the frame braket and weld in a piece of internally threaded rod.
This fills the space in the U-shape of the channel that's left after
cutting off the end. Then you just thread in the large heim joint
until the camber is correct. You'll need to make up some spacers
since the heim joint (or rod end, as the 'mercan race shops will
know them as) is a bit narrower than the rubber bushing that it
replaces. Of course, you'll want to be sure that the weld is done
correctly...
cheers,
John Lye
rjl6n@Virginia.edu
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