Good stuff coming out of this...I am now glad I re issued the inquiry.
* I sensed that heat & bend was not for me
* Caster stagger not planned and dont know how to change easily. In
fact I thought the early TR4s had no caster...need to go back and look.
* The K & S expert strongly recommended the toe out setting and it
feels just fine except traveling in the paddock and pits.
Thanks Hardy....btw, my lucky HP T-shirt is working for me.
Hobbes says hello to PC, again
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From: Catpusher@aol.com[SMTP:Catpusher@aol.com]
Sent: Wednesday, June 03, 1998 8:35 PM
To: emanteno@ix.netcom.com; fot@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: K & S Alignment/Sharing Information
In a message dated 6/3/98 3:49:09 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
emanteno@ix.netcom.com writes:
<< FWIW, the heat and bend method was the method of choice in the
book
"Vintage Racing British Sports Cars" The heat and beat method was
attributed to Dennis Day.
>>
<snip>
I knew that I could avoid this thread, alas.....
The heat and bend is great 20's thinking that I used well into the
70's;
until I knew better. Turn the steering and watch the upper control
arms twist. NOT a good way to go.
I get enough neg. camber by slotting the upper fulcrum to frame
holes,
using PINNED offset upper A arm bushings, and slotting the later
(yes, some TR3Bs came with them) control arms to move in the ball
joint. You will need the correct trunion for the 3 deg caster,
which you
want.
I strongly advise against using the TR2/3 upper control arms on the
track for safety reasons.
BTW caster stagger may work at the 500, but can cause major problems
under braking, so I strongly recommend getting the two sides even
Joe.
I also find toe out terrible on my chassis.
For those of you who still insist on bending the vertical links,
there is a Miata & driver that last helped me.
Who has measured the bump steer in a stock TR2/3? I would like to
know
the figures.
Regards, HP
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