Hi FOT
I have finally returned from Cleveland to the land of Email (senior family
team mate is happily on the mend)
Rear hub seals: After my first season or so with oil cooled rear
brakes, a fellow racer (AH3000) suggested that I try two twin lip
seals in the axle tubes. This worked for quite a few seasons until
CR decided to make the metal part of the seal extend into the range of
axle flex (anyone who has watched a fully laden B52 take off from a
head on angle has learned that things can flex and live for long periods
of time) ANY oil that gets past the oil seal into the brg. grease will
dilute the grease to the point where it will pass through the grease seal.
I researched other axle mods, and did prototype work until I came up
with making baffles out of 3/16" teflon sheet that is a SLIP fit in the axle
hsg.
in the recess inboard of the axle tubes. Note that if oil gets past the
teflon, it can drain back when the teflon moves towards the C/L, as there
are two slots in the hsg. NOTE THAT THE TEFLON I.D. DIFFERS FROM
SIDE TO SIDE AS THE HALF SHAFTS ARE NOT EQUALLY IN THE HSG.
I hope anyone using metal washers/baffles takes note of this so that they
do not put a stress mark on the tight side. I let Jack W know this trick
when he decided to make a TR2 race car (on a TR4A frame!) with the
required solid axle.
I use the FACTORY oil/grease seals and they work ok with the teflon
devices, IF one inspects and polishes the grease seal surface in the
back side of the hub, where the factory finish is often terrible. Do NOT
use fingers in the recess if you spin the hub in a drill press or other
device, as the slot will try to grab you in an unpleasant way!
I carved my teflon baffles with a sharp knife. Hand pack the rear hub
brgs. with high temp disk brake wheel brg. grease and do not add to it
between the times you pull the half shafts to inspect them and/or change
the axle ratio for your next race track
Good Racing from (I do not win them all !) HP
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