One trick is to remove the spark plugs to reduce the loads on the bearings,
and turn the engine by hand to see if it is free. If it isn't, work it around,
possibly putting a teaspoon of oil in each cylinder.
Then crank it with the starter, but still without plugs.
This will lube everything with the oil pump, without excessive loads on the
bearings, etc.
Just my 2 cents worth.
JimG NJ
--- On Tue, 4/27/10, Gordon Glasgow <gsglasgow@comcast.net> wrote:
From: Gordon Glasgow <gsglasgow@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] Starting a new engine
To: "'Ronnie Day'" <ronnie.day@gmail.com>, "'Roger Kersch'"
<rogerkerschhd@hotmail.com>
Cc: datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net
Date: Tuesday, April 27, 2010, 12:51 AM
Be sure you prime the lubrication system before you attempt to turn it over
at all. It would be a real shame to scrub a bearing on an engine like that.
Gordon Glasgow
-----Original Message-----
From: datsun-roadsters-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:datsun-roadsters-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Ronnie Day
Sent: Monday, April 26, 2010 7:21 PM
To: Roger Kersch
Cc: datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] Starting a new engine
> I am seeking opinions: I rebuilt and repainted my 2L conversion and never
> started the fresh bored engine since about 95 or 96, always in heated
> garage.The cyls could have some surface rust esp w fresh bored and honed
> cyls. The cyls were oiled then but surely need something.... Or tear it
down
> and clean and oil the cyls? This engine is balanced, Norris cam, ported
> head, lite flywheel, .060 pistons, shot peened rods Chevy conn rod bolts,
> springs shimmed .050", 44PHH's, 4.38 lim slip, drilled oil galleries,
> Koni's, comp sway bar. Should be fun if if I get it going in a few hrs....
>
If it were mine, I'd at least pull the head and check the cylinders,
or maybe use a bore scope if you can rent or borrow one. If the bores
aren't clean you know what to do. If they are, you're fine. You've
invested too much time and $$$ to cut corners now, IMO.
Ron
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