> How do you get to the starter?
Thru the frame.
But first: You have a 1600.
If it has the original starter, it's longer and thinner than the
shorter and fatter starter that is OEM on the 2000's. If you have
a header, the U20 starter, being shorter, helps keep it away from
the header heat (a long 1600 starter plus a header results in cooking
the rear bushing. I've heard of some starters actually touching
the header!)
The U20 starter probably has more torque, but I'm guessing.
If you're replacing, consider a gear reduction H20 (forklift) starter.
But back to getting it out:
details are in the archives somewhere, but briefly, put the left
front on jack stands, remove the left wheel, and access the starter thru
the triangular opening in the frame. If you turn it 'just right',
it'll slide out. Some cars, as noted, have a metal plate tack welded
on (presumably as a splash guard?). You may need to remove or bend the
corner of the plate.
The starter will seem like there's no way it'll come out, and you'll
twist and turn and curse the people that said it would, and suddenly
it'll pop through and you'll say "whoa! How'd that happen??"
Rebuilts used to be available thru NAPA. DO NOT turn in your old
one until you're CERTAIN it matches up to your new one!!! Sometimes
'the right one' has the ears rotated slightly from what's expected
and in the wrong position. Subtle. You'll find out when you try to
put it back in.
-- John
John F Sandhoff sandhoff@csus.edu Sacramento, CA
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