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When you say your ammeter drops dramatically, that is not normally what
happens.
With everything operating correctly and engine running, the ammeter SHOULD
be sitting just + of the centre zero position.
This indicates that the regulator is allowing a small trickle charge to the
battery, achieved by a terminal voltage at the battery terminals of ~13.6V.
Now, when you connect ANY extra electrical load, the regulator senses this
and adjusts the alternator output to compensate for it.
You should be able to see all this happen by a momentary flick of the
ammeter to zero, or slightly -, then it quickly recovers and returns to the
normal position, just + of zero.
If you have to rev the engine to maintain operation, there is indeed a
problem.
Since you have already changed all the relevant hardware, there remains the
issue of good connections, including earths, and perhaps mechanical
adjustment of the regulator, assuming it is the relay type and not solid
state.
The actual problem may be a combination of things but it is the regulators
job to control the alternators output to cater for the varying loads.
Try checking and cleaning ALL wiring connections, you might have to scrape
some paint off the regulator base if it earths through the mounting holes.
If you are not confidant with analysing the electrical problems, take it to
a reputable Auto. Battery Shop.
Usually, they can do a complete check of the charging system for nix or
little cost.
One would expect new parts to be fault free, but stranger things have
happened at sea!
"Headlights drain battery
I already replaced my battery, alternator, volt regulator, and starter. My
car is still dying only at night when i turn my headlights on. When i turn
them on i notive my Amp meter drops dramatically and i have to keep a high
rev @ stops so it doesnt die."
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