Additional hints from me:
you can cut off the jiggler valve with some diaganal cutting plyers and have
a hole there just the right size, and not subject to closing in any way. I
routinly either cut off the jiggler valve, or if no valve, drill a 1/8th
hole.
If refilling a system that is completely drained, and the thermostat is too
hard to take apart, like the tower studs are siezed, then loosen up the
higher up of the two heater hoses, and build a hose and funnel setup that
allows filling the car from the heater hose. You can fill the radiator, and
then the rest from the heater hose. This is of course not a perfect
solution, but will work just fine.
Best Regards,
Jim
Chesapeake Va
67 pushrod 2L "SAKE RKT"
72 510 sportwagon project
>From: "Graeme" <graemes@internode.on.net>
>To: "'Roel Hammerschlag'" <sky@drizzle.com>,
><datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net>
>Subject: Re: [Roadsters] filling up a '70 1600 cooling system
>Date: Fri, 14 Sep 2007 10:31:39 +0930
>
> Hi Roel,
>What you need is a thermostat with a jiggle valve.
>This is a little weighted dooby that normally closes off a tiny hole in the
>thermostat plate.
>When you fill up the cooling system, the valve is pushed open by the
>escaping air.
>When the coolant reaches the thermostat, the valve is closed off.
>A tiny hole in the thermo plate will achieve the same thing.
>Just big enough to bleed the trapped air but not pass a huge amount of
>water
>[as it were!]
>
>The cap on the radiator is not a pressure cap, just a sealing cap.
>The pressure cap should be on the overflow tank which gets the burped air
>from the system.
>
>I have a pic. Of the thermo. With jiggler if you want one.
>
>Every time I drain the cooling system I have the most incredibly difficult
>time filling it back up. Because the thermostat's closed, it's virtually
>impossible to get the block filled with water. The very suboptimal
>solution
>I've come up with is to run the engine half dry until the thermostat opens
>despite not being submerged (the temp gauge usually reads over 260 before
>this happens) and then sloooowwwwwly adding more fluid into the running
>engine so as not to crack anything.
>There's GOT to be a better way. Can someone help me out?
>
>- Roel
>
>P.S. I also don't really understand how that reservoir tank on the side
>works, either. Maybe this is part of my problem. I try to keep it roughly
>half full like the original manual says.
>_
>
>Version: 7.5.485 / Virus Database: 269.13.16/1004 - Release Date:
>12/09/2007
>5:22 PM
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>
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>
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