Originally, all carb floats were brass. As brass got more expensive, mfrs
switched to other, cheaper, materials. There are two basic types of
plastic floats. The better of the two is hollow and is made of either
nylon or polyethylene. The other type is made of solid nitrile. It is
porous and seldom lasts more than 5 years. Their only reason for existence
is that they are so cheap to make.
I prefer the hollow nylon ones myself. Brass will corrode over time, but
poly or nylon will last for several lifetimes.
As for retorquing head bolts/studs, it is not necessary to loosen them
before retorquing. The reason for the retorquing is that the head gasket
will tend to shrink minutely after taking a "set", and that will loosen
the bolts (usually about 5% or so). Simly use an accurate torque wrench
and run them in the correct order.
With studs, it is important to remember not to bottom them out. I don't
even handtighten them during installaton. I simply run them in the
specified amount (ask the mfr for directions), and let them tighten
against the threads, not against the bottom of the hole. That is the only
way you can get the proper amount of "stretch".
Marcus A. Pryor
For a new age of reason
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