Chuck,
Good to hear that your gauges are now working.
As for the low beam problem it is usually the contacts on the high/low
beam switch. I think you will need to remove the steering wheel to get
to it. Before you do this, try checking the connections where the wires
come out of the turn signal switch, and at the headlight relay. Since
you had one corroded contact under your dash, there may be another one
near by.
The high beam contact is quite small and gets dirty easily. You might be
able to squirt contact cleaner in where the turn signal stalk goes into
the turn signal switch, then flip from high to low beam a bunch of
times. See if that will do the job. All that switch does is ground the
wire to the headlight relay.
If you need to remove the steering wheel be sure to either mark the
relationship between the steering shaft and the wheel, or make sure the
wheels are straight ahead when you pull the wheel so you can get the
steering wheel back on correctly.
Chuck Kyle wrote:
>Thanks for all of the help. I got the schematic off of 311,org, fantastic,
>found the one with the temp gauge on it, took it to Staples and for under
>$20 I now have a foam backed laminated 18x24 colour wiring schematic.
>
>With that in hand, I found the problem, a corroded connector on the voltage
>regulator under the dash (thanks Pat for the location on that one). After
>cleaning, dielectric grease and a reconnection all of the gauges not work.
>
>I believe the AMP was already working but did not know it, I thought that it
>should read in the positive while the car was running not neg and zero so I
>believe that is now correct.
>
>My next project is the high beams and low beams. When selected to hi no
>problem works fine, but in low they flicker between high and low, must be a
>contact problem. So I guess that I am going to disconnect and take it off
>of the steering column and see if I can figure a solution.
>
>Thanks again all, I greatly appreciated the help. Final thought, where
>should I post pictures of my car?
>
>Chuck
>
>
>
>
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