1) I am at least partly brain-dead.
2) If you have Solex's, removing the metal plate & pretty air horns makes
it much easier to get to the MC brake line fittings. Flare nut wrenches
really do work better than open-end.
3) Removing the lower MC nut can be very easy, or impossible - depending on
tools used. Don't try to use a 3/8" flex with socket, you'll get it
hopelessly stuck and remember many words you may not have used for a long
time.
4) If you remove the retaining clip, return spring, and pin from the clutch
pedal, the brake master cylinder will still not come out even after removing
the lines and nuts. It will have a springy feel to it, however, when you
TRY to remove it. Also, you will lose the retaining clip from the clutch
pedal. You will also notice how worn the clutch pin is because you've never
greased it. You will neglect to grease it when you put it back in, and have
to pull it one more time.
5) After figuring this out so far, the MC will still not come out (if you
have Solex's) until you remove the metal plate that secures the throttle
cable on the rear carb unit.
6) Leaking brake fluid does indeed make an excellent paint remover.
I've not yet started to put in the new MC and Stans brace, so I'm sure this
list will grow in the next day or two...
John F
'69 2000
LV, NV
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