> How many miles do you guys think one should get from the U20
> timing chain/tensioner/guides?
Depends a lto on how hard you drive it and how well you maintain it, but the
"book" says 60K.
> How do I check for wear besides
> waiting for the big loud racket when it's beat? Why do these
> wear relatively quickly? I had a 280ZX with 225K miles & never
> replaced anything in the engine. Of course it had updated
> technology but just wondering.
See http://www.gordon-glasgow.org/Evil_L.asp for some of the answers.
The L24 was a lower-specific-output engine than the U20 (62.5 hp/liter vs 75
hp/liter for the Solex U20).
> Is there any significate difference in the U20 between 67.5 and 70?
Main difference is the lack of smog ports in the exhaust ports on the 67.5.
Other differences are the location of the alternator and the presence of
emission control equipment.
> When driving my car (2000 with SU's) I often have to "blip" the
> throttle to get the RPM's to settle back down below 2000. Is
> this the throttle return spring? Any other likely causes?
It could be that the throttle cable is set just a bit too tight. There
should be a bit of slack in it when the throttle is fully closed. It could
also be wear in the throttle shafts (Keith?)
> Someone told me that when parking on a hill to put the stress on
> the emergency brake instead of putting it in gear, letting the
> trasmission take the tension then setting the brake. Any
> validity to this?
I always put the parking brake on, let off the brakes, then let the clutch
out. I let the engine be a backup system for the brakes. The brakes are
designed to hold the car. Using compression in the cylinders to hold the car
seems to me like it would put pressure on the rod and crank bearings when
there is no oil pressure to lubricate it.
Gordon
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