On our 66 1600, I had to grind off the bottom of the rivet on the door pivot
end to get the limiters off. They could then be removed out through the
inside of the a-pillar. A clevis pin will replace the rivet for reassembly.
I tried / used a number of different stripping methods on the "R", some
which worked better than others:
a. some panels with "aircraft" stripper - messy and often needed multiple
applications, but worked reasonably well on paint. Didn't even try it on
undercoating
b. heat gun and putty knife with corners rounded to prevent deep scratches -
worked well on paint and bondo, but slow going. Didn't work too well on
undercoating or asphalt since softening the goo made it harder to work with.
c. dry ice to remove the asphalt sound deadening on the floors - worked
amazingly well - pics on my website
d. used a pressure pot sandblaster at 110PSI to attack the underside - did
a good job of removing the loose undercoating, but would have taken forever
to eat through that which was still firmly attached....I figured the areas
that wouldn't come off under such an assualt had to still be sound
underneath. Epoxy primed, painted, and seam-sealed and will re-undercoat.
e. took the fenders to a chemical dipping outfit since they would be very
difficult to strip on the inside - $70 each. Did a fantastic job of
stripping the rust and goo, and also removed all the factory lead around the
headlight buckets. As pre-arranged, they called me when they were done so I
could immediately get the fenders epoxy primed. Since its clean bare steel,
you have to get them sealed right away to prevent surface rust.
Unfortunately, they were done 4 days sooner than quoted, and I had to race
up there to pick up, get home and prime before out of town company
arrived....
All of the above worked to one degree or another, with the chemical
stripping/dipping being the easiest - just depends on your time -vs- dollar
commitment. The dipping place I used gave me a ballpark of $700 for a car
the size of the roadster. The biggest consideration with this method is
that the steel has to be sealed immediately after stripping. Some places
offer a priming service ( not the one I used) , while others offer an oil
spray to protect the metal until you have time to seal. I had read
numerous accounts of the negative of the oil spray however, since it adds
the additional problem of removing all traces of the oil prior to priming.
Mark Sedlack
ZROC
Cuyahoga Falls OH
66 1600 http://www.mildevco.net/chevypowereddatsuns/
77 280Z http://www.mildevco.net/chevypowereddatsuns/
> Hi List,
>
> I'm trying to figure out how to remove the doors, and don't see how the
little
> rod that limits the door swing is removed. Should I just grind off the
pin on
> the door side? Can't see any bolts to remove which would allow easy
removal.
> What works best?
>
> Also, starting to think about the best way to remove the paint, bondo,
> undercoating tar and all the rust. Anybody have any experience with a
> chemical strip tank? What kind of cost is involved? I suppose media
blasting
> is also an option, but seems like it would be less effective on inside
body
> panel areas. What's the best approach?
>
> Thanks for the advice,
>
> Dana Holgate
> 69 1600
|