Ron,
Once you remove the steering wheel and
turn signal assembly, along with the
under dash panels and radio console you
should be able to start seeing all of
the screws on the bottom of the dash on
each side. If I remember correctly
there are 4 Phillips head screws total.
Be sure you remove the vent handle knob
on the right side because the bottom
panel on that side is not removable. I
would also recommend removing the glove
box door in order to protect it from the
parking brake handle.
If you have not yet played with the
radio console, be aware that the
electrical connectors are VERY fragile,
and are very likely to disintegrate in
your hands. I replaced all of these
connectors with Molex 0.063" (pin dia)
nylon connectors in an assortment of pin
counts to match the original count as
close as possible. You can find these
connectors at most electronic parts
distributors, and Radio Shack seems to
have a fairly good variety as well.
When I put new connectors in I included
the stereo speakers, power antenna, and
alarm system wiring, making it all look
almost factory. The alarm system itself
is in the trunk.
Other things that need disconnecting
before puling the dash back are the
speedo and tach cables, and the oil
pressure gauge plumbing, which has a
coupling just on the passenger side of
the firewall (be sure to use tubing
(sometimes called flared) wrenches on
these nuts in order to prevent rounding
of the nuts). You need to remove the
hand throttle nut from the dash so that
cable is not attached to the dash. You
will also need to unplug the wiring to
the headlight and wiper switches.
On the top of the dash, just behind
where the windshield meets the cowl,
there are 6 7/16" head bolts that hold
the top of the dash in. DON'T LOOSE
THESE BOLTS. They have sharp points on
them that help you when you put things
together again. You can remove the
bolts with a 7/16" offset wrench and a
little patience. I found that when I
put things together again it was very
helpful to make an captive nut alignment
tool by putting a 90 degree bend in a
piece of firm wire and using the thin
wire to align the captive nuts on the
body to the holes in the dash.
At this point you should be able bring
the dash back enough to service about
anything you want. If you are going to
actually remove the dash you will have
more of the fragile electrical
connectors to deal with, and you will
need to remove the three Phillips screws
that hold the heater control cables to
the dash. If those cables are a
problem, refer to my tech stuff page for
instructions describing how to new
control cables.
In all I think I pulled the dash 3 times
last year. The first time took a while,
the third took a relative few minutes.
Tom
69 2000 "Mr. Hyde"
Portland, Oregon
http://www.fransfancies.com/datsun
-----Original Message-----
From:
owner-datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-datsun-roadsters@autox.tea
m.net]On Behalf Of
remfender@earthlink.net Mail Account
Sent: Monday, December 29, 2003 7:51 AM
To: datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net
Subject: question on 69 srl 2000
Hi all, and merry xmas happy new year
need help on these items
please tell me about pulling out the
steering shaft on a 69 2000
i am taking the body off the frame,, i
did my 1600 is it mostly the same
at the dash?? any tricks to know?
also - how does the dash come out, of a
69 srl 2000,? where are the bolts
???before i start tearing into it---
restoring a 69 srl 2000
thanks for any information
Ron Mistak
69-2000
69-1600
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