My first preference (and what I run) is a Tilton aluminum flywheel. The
quality is extremely high.
A lightened steel flywheel is more of an unknown. It should only be done by
a shop that really knows what they are doing. There's a diagram in the Bob
Sharp manual that shows what to remove. It's on page 18.
http://www.datsun.org/roadster/info/dcpm11.pdf
Be sure to have the flywheel magnafluxed first.
Gordon Glasgow
Renton, WA
www.gordon-glasgow.org
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net
> [mailto:owner-datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of
> JOver4X4@aol.com
> Sent: Wednesday, July 16, 2003 2:04 PM
> To: datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net
> Subject: lightened flywheel
>
>
> List,
>
> My engine rebuild is progressing slowly but surely. I am ready
> to send the rotating assy out for balancing. I am looking for a
> lightened flywheel before I send parts to be balanced. Does
> anyone have a U20 aluminum flywheel for sale? Another option
> would be a lightened steel flywheel.
>
> Question: If I lighten my own flywheel how critical is surface
> finish and ensuring a radius on all cuts to avoid stress risers?
> I may be too paranoid but don't want my legs cut off if the thing
> grenades. Should I stick with a manufactured aluminum or
> lightened steel flywheel or is a lightened stock flywheel ok (and
> safe) to use? Does anyone use a scattershield or safety blanket?
> I will autocrossing the car and hope to get some track time
> locally, however, the car will be used mostly on the street.
>
> Your comments and recommendations are appreciated!
>
> John Over
> 68 2000 (old style solex)
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