Ken,
Did you check the Distributor Cap for any arcing lines or cracks? Either of
these could be causing your spark to go ground on the dizzy body rather than the
spark plugs as expected.
If you put your timing light on the coil wire you should see each time the coil
generates a high voltage discharge. If your dizzy cap is shorted you might not
see the spark here on positions 1&2, so you might remove the cap or coil wire
from the cap to check for spark. I don't know if a problem with your dizzy cam
could cause a problem like this because I have never experienced a dizzy
shaft/cam problem.
No, I would not expect a DC contact between the rotor and cap terminal. There
should be a very small gap to prevent mechanical damage as the rotor goes in
circles.
How does the cap look inside? Is it filled with metal filings? Are the
contacts
rough and worn (bad, but likely not your problem), or fairly clean and smooth
(good)? Bad wires or plugs will cause the dizzy cap contacts to build up a
layer of crud because not all of the spark is not going where it should.
Tom
69 2000
Portland
Ken Pearce wrote:
> My pre-smog distributor on my 68-2000 is not getting spark to plug wires #1
> or #2. The car is running on 3 & 4 only.
>
> I replaced the plug wires with new set, no joy.
>
> I replaced the points and condenser and gapped the points, no joy.
>
> I replaced the cap rotor, no joy.
>
> What am I overlooking? How could 3&4 be getting spark no problem and 1&2
> are not? (Firing order is correct...)
>
> Should there be electrical continuity between the ignition coil wire and the
> plugwire for each respective cylinder as the rotor passes by? I tried
> confirming this with an ohm meter and didn't have much success. The plug
> wires along ohmed out at about 80ohms I believe.
>
> Any ideas appreciated!
>
> Ken Pearce 68-2000
> B'ham WA
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