Yea, the Volvo sounds strange, but there are
strange specs a lot closer to home. I did cylander
heads for a freind with a V6 Lumina. (he had allowed
a bad waterpump to leak to the point of overheating,
and blew headgaskets, garage wanted 2,200 to fix, I
said I would do it for 1000) First of all,
dont ever buy any of the GM clones of this car,
it was the hardest 1000 I ever earned.....
But, in any event, after having the heads checked,
putting in a new waterpump, I was to the point
of torqueing them down, and the drill was something
like "torque to 100lbs, then turn an additional
1/2 turn"
I forgot the exact torque and procedure...but it was
an awful lot of torque, and I was sure I would
snap a bolt somewhere in there.....but I didnt,
and car ran fine...except it took about a million
years to start.
Some wierd thing with the lifters on these cars,
maybe caused by the thick gooy goop that was
the oil by the time the owner stopped it
(I changed oil and filter 3X).....but on
initial start up there was zero compression,
the engine turned over like a darn electric motor...
I was sure I had screwed up something in a big big way.
But, eventually it very slowly started sounding like
and engine and eventually started. After the oil
changes I went for a test ride, and it ran fine for
about 15 minutes, then residual crap must have
zonked the O2 sensor, and the engine went into
"im confused" mode......after a new O2 sensor I
finally got the car back to him.
Never again will I work on a front wheel drive
GM product! Not one single part of the
tear down and put together showed any remote hint
that GM concerned themselves with the fact that
some day someone might have to work on these things....
Jim
Chesapeake Va
>From: "datsunmike" <datsunmike@nyc.rr.com>
>Reply-To: "datsunmike" <datsunmike@nyc.rr.com>
>To: "Patrick J. Horne" <horne@cs.utexas.edu>, "Gary McCormick"
><svgkm@halley.ca.essd.northgrum.com>
>CC: "Tim Waltz" <printner@worldnet.att.net>,
><datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net>
>Subject: Re: anti-seize
>Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2002 20:02:19 -0400
>MIME-Version: 1.0
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>Many new engines are assembled this way.
>
>Mike
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Patrick J. Horne" <horne@cs.utexas.edu>
>To: "Gary McCormick" <svgkm@halley.ca.essd.northgrum.com>
>Cc: "Tim Waltz" <printner@worldnet.att.net>;
><datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net>
>Sent: Tuesday, September 10, 2002 1:15 PM
>Subject: Re: anti-seize
>
>
> > If I decide to use anti-seize on a bolt, I go through a few extra steps
> > before I put the anti-seize on the bolt. First, I torque the bolt down
> > dry, and note the relative position of the bolt head. Then I remove the
> > bolt, put the anti-seize on it, then tighten it back down until the bolt
> > head is in the same position that it was before applying the anti-seize.
> >
> > My old Volvo 260 series manual was strange and used a pointer on the
> > torque wrench, as well as a protractor to tighten a lot of its engine
> > bolts. First you torqued the bolts to a minimal torque, say, 10 Ft/Lbs,
>(I
> > don't remember what the manual called for, so the 10 Ft/Lbs is for
>theory
> > only). Next set the pointer to zero on the protractor, then turned the
> > bolt the given number of degrees. Sounded strange, but it did the job.
>The
> > Volvo 260 was a poor engine to begin with, I'm glad I replaced it with a
> > 240 engine!
> >
> > Peace,
> > Pat
> >
> > - Support Habitat for Humanity, A "hand up", not a "hand out" -
> >
> > Pat Horne, Network Manager, Shop Supervisor/Future planner, CS Dept,
> > University of Texas, 1 University Station C0500,Austin, Tx. 78712-1188
>USA
> > voice (512)471-9730, fax (512)471-8885, horne@cs.utexas.edu
> >
> > On Tue, 10 Sep 2002, Gary McCormick wrote:
> >
> > > A good all-around anti-sieze is the MIL-PRF-83483 material. This
>stuff
>is just
> > > molybdenum disulfide in petrolatum (vaseline, essentially), but for
>non
>high-temperature
> > > applications (don't use it in exhaust manifold studs, for example) it
>works great. It is
> > > available at just about any auto parts place. The thing to watch out
>for
>when using
> > > anti-sieze on a threaded fastener is the increased axial load on the
>lubricated fastener
> > > which will result from the same torque. With less of the torque input
>taken up in
> > > friction, the same torque will yield a higher tensile load - i.e., the
>bolt will be
> > > tighter. This is VERY important if the threads are in a softer
>material
>such as aluminum -
> > > and don't ask me how I know this.... ;^).
> > >
> > > Gary McCormick
> > > San Jose, CA
> > >
> > > Tim Waltz wrote:
> > >
> > > > What do you recommend for anti-seize?? I've read that different
>people use
> > > > it on bolts, etc, but any certain kind for different applications?
> > > >
> > > > My immediate need is for a trailer hitch ball. The last one I put
>on
>froze
> > > > to itself (no rust). The only familiarity I have with anti-seize is
>Ti-prep
> > > > for bolts going into titanium bike frames.
> > > >
> > > > Tim
> > > >
> > > > /// datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net mailing list
> > > > /// Send admin requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or go to
> > > > /// http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool
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> > >
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> >
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>
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