Mike,
I would start by looking closely at the points and the point wire to the - coil
terminal. Are the points opening properly? Has corrosion or a sharp tip been
built up on the point contacts? If so clean the contacts or file the sharp tip
back to the shape of the point contact. A sharp point would indicate a need
for new points and condenser. Is the condenser properly connected and
functional. As a last resort I might try to replace the condenser if I could.
Is the wire clear of any possibility it is shorting out on the distributor
body? Could it be shorting anywhere else?
If that is all in good shape I would turn the ignition switch on, start the car
and let it die. Then leave the switch on and start chasing voltage.
Using your volt meter or lamp start at the points to be sure there is no
voltage if the points are closed. Move to the - lead on the coil. Is there
voltage there? It should be about the same as measured across the closed
points. basically 0. Next move to the + lead of the coil. Is there voltage
there? Yes? The voltage should be less than the ignition switch side of the
ballast resistor. If the voltage is the same the coil may be open. If there
is voltage on the ignition side of the ballast resistor only, replace the
ballast resistor. It is defective.
No voltage on either side of the ballast resistor?
Start following the wire back to the ignition switch. Are there any inline
connectors? check the voltage on both sides of each connector. It is possible
that the wire to connector contacts, or the mating contacts themselves, are
corroded and will not pass sufficient current to your ignition system. Follow
this lead all the way to your ignition switch. Make sure the ignition switch
is both receiving voltage from the battery and delivering voltage to the
ignition circuit.
Try not to move the wires as you go because moving the wires may create a
temporary good connection that will cause to miss the problem.
Look for corrosion as you go. I have even seen a buildup of goo around
corroded contact connections in a Volvo I once owned. It finally just stopped
running until I found the mess on the back of the ignition switch and made
temporary repairs until I could get to work and take it all apart to fix it
correctly.
Good luck,
Tom
69 2000
Datsun_Sports wrote:
> I installed the 311s.com alt mod. went in great. tried to start car and
> would not do so. I charged the battery using my truck. car started and ran
> for a few seconds but would not stay running. nothing to do with the alt
> mod. this is what the car was doing before. it will run fine if I run a
> jumper from the + on the batter to the coil. if I don't it does not seem to
> get any spark at all. not even at the coil. not sure why it will try to run
> the first few times without the jumper and then wont even get spark. oh
> well....time to eat! could be worse.........
>
> anyone care to venture as to why no spark exists? problems to look
> for......the starter kicks it over like a champ now with the new battery
> cables.
>
> thx for all the help!
>
> mike
>
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