For us 1600 owners there's no problem leaving one of the nuts off providing
the manifold doesn't leak. However for 2L owners there is water running from
the intake manifold that becomes a problem from what I gather from reading
their problems.
For that last difficult nut I use a long 1/2" tappet adjuster wrench which
makes life a bit easier. I didn't know what kind of wrenches they were as I
bought them at an estate sale but when I went to Sears I saw the same set
and they are for adjusting tappets. Very thin and long. I paid 5 for a
excellent set and Sears wanted a lot more.
Mike
----- Original Message -----
From: "David R. Conrad" <conrad1@gte.net>
To: "datsunmike" <datsunmike@nyc.rr.com>
Cc: "Paul" <9laser3@bright.net>; <datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, June 21, 2002 12:00 AM
Subject: I Left the DAMN Thing Off!! (was: Any tips or tricks for removing
carbs
> As Victor Laury termed it, "the inside/lower/aft manifold nut". I left
the
> damn thing off, the last time. I have replaced it at least 20 times.
My
> description of replacing those 10 nuts is as follows: 5 are easy, two are
> difficult, two are very difficult, and that one is damn near impossible.
>
> When you do finally get it back on, you know that eventually will have to
> remove it again.
>
> In addition to the fact that I have increasingly arthritic joints in my
fingers
> and they aren't as supple as they used to be, I rationalized, using basic
> Mechanics (the physics kind), and good application of Permatex Coppercote
on
> the gasket and flange surfaces.
>
> The bending moment through gravity, naturally places a compressive load at
the
> lower stud location, in particular, those two lowest ones of the intake
> manifold. That together, with the rather tight fit of the intake manifold
over
> those lower studs and the Permatex, convinced me that "no way" would it
leak.
>
> Seven months since I finally decided to "cop out" there is no evidence of
any
> leakage, and I don't think there will be any.
>
> And I won't have to remove that nut the next time!!!
>
> Dave
>
> '68 1600
> Kailua-Kona
>
> datsunmike wrote:
>
> > I guess it pays to be small.
> >
> > The perfect Roadster mechanic would have long thin hands and of course
> > matching fingers :)
> >
> > Peter Egan, a columnist of Road & Track, once mentioned the joys of
bolting
> > up 1600 manifolds when he was a full time mechanic working for his
friend
> > Bebe.
> >
> > Mike
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Paul" <9laser3@bright.net>
> > To: <datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Thursday, June 20, 2002 7:17 PM
> > Subject: Re: Any tips or tricks for removing carbs
> >
> > > At Sloan Racing, where pulling the manifolds happens often on our
two
> > SCCA
> > > G Production 1600 roadster, we have found that the Sear's ratcheting
open
> > > end wrenches are great for those nuts under the manifolds. That, and
the
> > > fact that we normally leave those bolts for Cathy Ann (the daughter
part
> > of
> > > the father/daughter team drivers!) since she has smaller hands that
fit
> > much
> > > better! If Cathy Ann isn't around, we have had some luck in talking
Cathy
> > > (the wife/mom of the team) in to the job a few time. But then she was
the
> > > whole crew for years before I showed up to help.
> > >
> > > Paul Kort
> > > 1969 1600
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: dana nojima <noji-1@pacbell.net>
> > > To: <datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net>
> > > Sent: Thursday, June 20, 2002 4:37 PM
> > > Subject: Re: Any tips or tricks for removing carbs
> > >
> > >
> > > > Blake,
> > > >
> > > > Depending on the manifold/header set up the bends may be different
and
> > > > allow more or less room for wrenches. I have several sets of
wrenches
> > > > that are different lengths and thickness and find that some work
better
> > > > at one location compared to another. I find that the set that I've
> > > > gotten from Sears are a bit thick for some locations. Got to love
those
> > > > Snap On wrenches that are thinner.
> > > >
> > > > Make sure that all the nut sizes are the same. When I first got my
car
> > > > I had a mixture of 12 and 13 mm nuts. What a pain in the ___.
> > > >
> > > > Again, depending on the headers, the current set that I have will
not
> > > > allow for the removal of some nuts until the whole header is moved
out
> > > > half way on the studs.
> > > >
> > > > Dana
> > > >
> > > > Victor Laury wrote:
> > > >
> > > > > Blake, It's not that hard to get the carbs off, really. Take the
front
> > > off
> > > > > first then the back. If your hand cramps, take a break. The REALLY
> > hard
> > > part
> > > > > is the inside/lower/aft manifold nut. No Tricks, just slow
patient,
> > 1/4
> > > > > turn, turn the wrench over, 1/4 turn, turn the wrench over, again
and
> > > again
> > > > > and again.
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > > > From: Blake Dietze <wb6jhj@ix.netcom.com>
> > > > > To: <datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net>
> > > > > Sent: Friday, July 19, 2002 8:22 PM
> > > > > Subject: Any tips or tricks for removing carbs
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > Hi gang;
> > > > >
> > > > > Does anyone have advise for pulling the carbs off my 69 2000? The
> > > exhaust
> > > > > manifold is "shot" so I've purchased a header from Fairlady
products
> > > and
> > > > > I'm
> > > > > ready to replace it. I am assuming that the carbs come off the
intake
> > > > > manifold, followed by the heat shield, then the manifolds from
the
> > > head. A
> > > > > couple of those 8 carburetor bolts look a bit difficult to get to.
> > Any
> > > > > advise
> > > > > appreciated.
> > > > >
> > > > > Blake Dietze
> > > > > Vancouver, WA
> > > > > '69 Datsun 2000
> > > > > SRL311-12049
> > > >
> > > > /// datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net mailing list
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> > >
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> >
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