Personally I have run a pair of DCOE 40's on an l18 in a 510. I would not
use the Cannon gooseneck manifold unless you absolutely need it for some
insane clearance issue. The DCOE's would be much more pleasant with a very
short strait manifold to keep the port velocity up. Secondly you will want
to make sure the manifold you use, whichever one that ends up being has
balance ports between each cylinder. The manifold I have had a single port
between cylinders three and four when I bought it. I ended up drilling an
additional port for cylinders one and two, and I fabricated an external
balance tube out of copper tube and brass fittings, between cylinders one
and four. I was suprised that the bosses for the port I drilled and bosses
for attaching fittings to make a balance pipe between the carbs. Off of
that tube is a port for the vacuum to the distributor advance. Also I port
matched my head and manifold to a Fel-Pro manifold gasket. All I used to do
that was a Dremel motor tool and an oblong high speed cutter bit.
It is also easy to keep the vacuum advance on your distributor functioning
exactly as it was intended. A couple of tools are needed a hand held vacuum
gauge and a hand operated vacuum pump. Hook up the vacuum gauge to the
manifold and run the engine through cruising rpm ranges noting the vacuum
signal coming from the engine. Then on the back of the vacuum advance
canister should be a blob of putty. Peel off the putty, and behind that
inside the vacuum advance is a small adjusting screw. Attach the vacuum
pump to the advance canister then turn the adjusting screw to adjust,
counterclokwise reduces the amount of vacuum needed to actuate the advance
mechanism. It should be set up pretty good if you just get the advance set
to work at the value you got while running the engine. Finally once you get
the vacuum advance dialed in seal the access to the adjusting screw or it
will be a vacuum leak.
For even better instructions on setting up Weber DCOE's and distributors on
L series engines see Jason Grey's website. Every thing I have learned about
setting up DCOE's and distributors I learned from his website.
http://home.att.net/~jason510/
At 06:50 AM 2/5/2002 -0500, datsunmike wrote:
>Check out 510 websites for the carbs and manifolds. You will have to change
>to a solid plate distributor advance plate too. You will also have to dial
>in the carbs to run correctly on your car too. Not an easy proposition.
>
>Mike
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "John Weinsheim" <jweinsheim@new.rr.com>
>To: "'Roadster'" <datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net>
>Sent: Monday, February 04, 2002 10:18 PM
>Subject: Yet another newbie
>
>
> > I'm a newbie, so please pardon any ignorance - I hope this qualifies as
>true
> > Roadster content...
> >
> > I currently have an L20B in my '69 SRL. It was in the car when I bought
>it.
> > I'm interested in replacing the current downdraft Hitachi with sidedraft
>Weber
> > DCOE 40's and replacing the stock manifold with a Cannon Gooseneck
>manifold.
> > From what I've read, this combo looks like it would be a good fit. The air
> > filter I've had to fab to close the hood just doesn't cut it anymore...
> >
> > Am looking for any help or guidance available.
> >
> > Also, looking for a good contact for a ROC in Wisconsin area. Bought the
>'69
> > in San Diego last summer before we moved to the Midwest...
> >
> > Thanks all.
> >
> > John Weinsheim
> > '69 SRL, Oshkosh
> >
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>
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