Hello all,
All is not lost for the heater valve. Remove the cotter pin holding
the inside of the valve in. The spring and washers should come off. Tap the
end where the spring and valve were. Now that it is apart, clean off the
crud, I bead blast them but scotch brite should work. I use anti-sieze
compound between the insert and the seat. Then reinstall the washers and a
new cotter pin. Several times I've had to cut off the ends of the cotter pin
to disassemble the valve and drill out the old, very rusty pin. If you ever
do more than one at a time do not mix up the parts. The taper on the seats
are not all the same and are matched to the inserts.
Or if it is still in the car (as I recall they are almost impossible to
remove from the head with the engine in the car).
Put a few drops of liquid wrench on it every day for about a week.
Every day carefully tap on the lever and the bottom if you can get to it. If
you can do it without toasting anything else a bit of heat with a propane
torch would also help.(use great care, we don't need any more "toasters")
With any luck it will break loose.
keith williams
> Wow, Two questions in one day!
>
> The heater shut off valve on my R16 engine is frozen
> rock-solid. It looks like it might be brass or a similar
> metal and I would appreciate recommendations on how to free
> this valve up and then what lubricant (if any) might be used
> to keep it operating smoothly.
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