You will get more torque , by stroking, but for more HP you will need to do
the cam...
I have built quite a few strockers and the stock carbs will work fine...
Changing the cam would be recomended.. and the cost is not that much ...
Call me if you want more info
Restoration Products
Mike Kerr
PH# 530-644-6777
Fax# 530-647- 0389
Web; wolfgang@innercite.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Adam Bradley" <ambradley@yahoo.com>
To: "datsunmike" <datsunmike@nyc.rr.com>; <datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, October 28, 2001 7:06 AM
Subject: Re: IF the tranny has to come out...
> That's my point. I don't want to buy different carbs (~$600) and port
> the intake and head (who knows how much?) if I can get SOME advantage
> (faster off the line, faster acceleration to 60, etc.) by stroking the
> motor. The rest can come later.
>
> --- datsunmike <datsunmike@nyc.rr.com> wrote:
> > Buy a used U20 crank and rods. You'll have to have the snout machined
> > but
> > way cheaper than trying to buy a new H20 crank and rods.
> >
> > You should also use U20 carbs and port the intake manifold and head.
> > I don't
> > think the 1600 carbs will pull enough air at higher RPMs.
> >
> > Mike
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Adam Bradley" <ambradley@yahoo.com>
> > To: <datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Saturday, October 27, 2001 10:13 PM
> > Subject: IF the tranny has to come out...
> >
> >
> > > I haven't checked the countershaft bearings yet, but if I have to
> > pull
> > > the tranny to replace the bearings, then I should also replace the
> > > leaking engine rear main seal.
> > >
> > > If I replace the rear main seal, I also have to pull the
> > crankshaft,
> > > right? To pull the crankshaft, I have to pull the pan, which means
> > I
> > > can easily replace the oil pump. I'll also have to pull off the
> > timing
> > > chain to get the crankshaft out, right? So I might as well replace
> > the
> > > timing components.
> > >
> > > I have no reason to believe the camshaft is bad (or the crankshaft
> > or
> > > timing gears/chain, for the matter) but if I'm that deep in the
> > engine,
> > > I should have the camshaft checked, right?
> > >
> > > If I go that far, I'm already most of the way into an engine
> > rebuild.
> > > If I'm going to go that far, I'd rather turn it into an H20, if
> > there's
> > > any advantage to that without modifying the camshaft/head/carbs.
> > >
> > > So I guess my question is - If I have to disassemble the engine to
> > > replace the rear main seal, would it behoove me to get H20
> > internals,
> > > and would I gain anything by doing that? Should I stop in my local
> > > Nissan or Komatsu forklift dealer and ask for an H20 crankshaft,
> > > pistons, connecting rods and timing chain/gears? Is an H20 oil
> > pump
> > > the same as an R16 oil pump?
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > =====
> > > Adam
> > > '70 1600 SPL311-28181
> > > http://www.picturetrail.com/abend
> > > Make a great connection at Yahoo! Personals.
> > > http://personals.yahoo.com
> > >
> > > ///
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> >
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> >
>
>
> =====
> Adam
> '70 1600 SPL311-28181
> http://www.picturetrail.com/abend
> Make a great connection at Yahoo! Personals.
> http://personals.yahoo.com
>
> ///
> /// datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net mailing list
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