Hey all, Marc asked me to post this, as either his server or the lists'
server is puking on him. I apologize if by now (being I'm a digest reader)
this becomes a duplicate post.
dan neff
Marc Sayer wrote:
> Those modules are used on all sorts of Datsuns, both 4 and 6 cylinder. Less
>has
> at least a dozen good used ones and they are in junkyards all over the
>country.
> You can usually buy the whole used dist with module for $25 or so. However you
> do not need to use that particular module. You can use a GM HEI 4-prong module
> instead. I and several other people have talked about this conversion for 510s
> and Zs before, and it is as easy as can be. The hardest part is making a
> heatsink/mount for. You will want to remote mount it (say to the inner fender
> near the dist). This will make it almost indestructible as heat and vibration
> from mounting directly to an engine component are pretty much the only things
> that can make an EI module fail. But it does need the mount to be a heatsink.
> This is easy if you make the mounting bracket out of aluminum and make sure to
> use the right heatsink grease between the module back and the mount (the
>modules
> come with some but you can also buy some at almost any electronics house -
> understand it is for heat transfer and does not have anything to do with
> electrical contacts or anything else as some have suggested on certain
> websites). In its original application the HEI module was mounted inside the
> distributor, directly to the distributor housing with this grease aiding heat
> transfer from the module to the distributor body. If the modules held up in
>this
> environment (and they did) they will live almost forever when remote mounted
> away from the heat and vibration of an engine. The GM module is every bit as
> good as the Nissan module and last time I checked it cost about half as much
>as
> the Nissan module. But there are also good quality (and some not so good
> quality) aftermarket replacements for the HEI module (not so the Nissan
>module),
> as well as some high performance versions, and most all of them cost less too,
> some a lot less. They are available in almost every town in North America
>right
> off the shelf, no waiting, no hassles. Some even come with lifetime
>guarantees.
> So if cost and availability of replacement parts are a serious issue, and I
>can
> easily see why they would be, then Gary's product has to rate high on your
>list.
> The caps and rotors are much more commonplace than any vintage set would be
>(and
> better from a performance perspective as someone already outlined), and last I
> looked were still available in the higher quality brass terminal versions. And
> the parts are readily available from the junkyard and Nissan should you need
> repair parts for some reason, though I doubt you will as these dist tend to
>work
> for a very very long time. And if the module goes bad you know in a pinch, if
> you can't find a good stock module, that you can easily convert to the GM HEI
> module, which is easily the most commonplace module in the universe and
>probably
> the best value too. Oh and yes there are other modules that will also work,
> though none as common and inexpensive as the HEI.
>
> I give Gary a real tip of the hat for his efforts. It sounds like he has done
>it
> right, and offers it at a very fair price. A tough combo to beat, even if you
> want to do it yourself. This praise comes from someone who used to build
>similar
> dists for the 510s and Zs (which was much easier and required less
>modification
> and one off parts) and so knows the costs and efforts involved.
>
> Dan Neff wrote:
> >
> > Oops, thought I'd better chime in here since I've got one of Gary
> > Boone's EI distributors.
> >
> > 1. I was willing to buy an EI dizzie JUST so's I wouldn't have to
> > *@(#&!@ around with the timing and points all the time!
> > 2. I was drawn to the reasonable price, which eliminated all my
> > previous possible problems (Autozone distr'r, breaker plate screw(s?)
> > stripped, vac diaphragm of dubious value, points, ballast resistor,
> > etc).
> > 3. I was impressed with the efforts Gary put into matching the right
> > (NEW) components to original roadster spec; example: my vac advance
> > diaphragm (courtesy of Autozone) was such piece of cr*p, I was glad to
> > know he'd check the curve out on his, and it was a done deal.
> > 4. He's packaged (and included excellent instructions for) this thing so
> > that even a shade tree mechanic like myself can install it and start
> > it on the first try.
> > 5. Runs smoother! Well, I can't _swear_ to a massive improvement - as
> > you may recall I've been battling grose jet problems, and got several
> > things solved at about the same exact time.
> > 6. Gary is an honest, racing, ROADSTER owner! We're not talking some
> > non-roadstering joker trying to build dizzies out of junkyard parts
> > for a fast buck! Check out his webpage at http://www.wycroc.org (go
> > to 'The Gang', then 'Gary Boone') to see how much effort/knowledge
> > he's put into his car.
> >
> > I don't know anything about the control module - Laurie made some
> > interesting points there (if it fails). Have to check w/ Gary on
> > where he got 'em and how much to replace.
> > I guess a lot of the issue comes down to how much do-it-yourselfing
> > you like to do. Me, I'm learning dizzies and carbs by the day, but
> > still figure they're important enough parts of the car that I feel
> > better buying 'em from someone that's done all the homework on them
> > for me. If you're due for a new distributor (ex: worn shaft), and/or
> > are a shade tree mechanic that doesn't want to have to worry about
> > ignition problems, I recommend 'em!
> >
> > Dan Neff '69 2000
> > Colorado Springs, CO
>
> --
> Marc Sayer
> 82 280ZXT
> 71 510 2.5 Trans Am vintage racer
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