Yes, this sounds right.
One thing that you will find and think it is wrong is when you start
the engine and look at the ammeter you will find that it is showing
a discharge. This is correct. By wiring the alternator directly to
the battery you bypassed the ammeter, so its readings will be worthless
to determining if the alternator is putting out anything. Since you
added a 30 Amp fuse between the alternator and the battery it would be
possible to reroute that wire to go to the large white wire that you
removed from the alternator, rather than directly to the battery. This
would make the ammeter show sharge/discharge conditions correctly.
Peace,
Pat
- Support Habitat for Humanity, A "hand up", not a "hand out" -
Pat Horne, Network Manager, Shop Supervisor, Future planner
CS Dept, University of Texas, Austin, Tx. 78712 USA
voice (512)471-9730, fax (512)471-8885, horne@cs.utexas.edu
On Tue, 3 Jul 2001, Adam Bradley wrote:
> OK, I've installed the GM one wire alternator and wired it. (I was
> surprised that it fits in the stock late alternator location and the
> pulley lines up; the only mod. necessary was to enlarge the bottom ear
> hole on the alternator).
>
> OK, now for the reason for this e-mail. I want to make sure I've wired
> it correctly before I hook up the negative battery post. I connected a
> 12 gauge wire with an inline 30 amp fuse from the "red" post on the
> alternator directly to the battery + terminal. I connected the other
> post on the back of the alternator to ground. I've seen messages
> stating this is not necessary.
>
> Does this sound right? Am I going to blow up my car or melt my wiring?
>
> More importantly, can I completely disconnect my external voltage
> regulator and leave the connector dangling? Do I have any other wiring
> I need or should do?
>
>
>
> =====
> Adam
> '70 1600 SPL311-28181
> http://www.picturetrail.com/abend
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