Don't bother heating the block as it has too much mass. Heat the bolt
instead with a lot of propane or mapp gas or better yet oxy-acetylene.
My stud puller did a great job in removing stuck studs but make sure all the
grease is off first. If you use large vice grips whack it with a hammer, a
heavy hammer and make sure it's clamped down as hard as you can get it.
I hate easyouts too because when they break, which is too often the case,
you can't drill out the stud or bolt. I have good easyouts, not that Chinese
crap, and they still broke.
Mike
----- Original Message -----
From: "Adam Bradley" <ambradley@yahoo.com>
To: "C. Halsted" <chalsted@nycap.rr.com>; <Sexmnypwr@aol.com>
Cc: <datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, June 14, 2001 7:00 PM
Subject: Re: Head's off, broke a head bolt
> I was just reading online about easy-out and the general impression I
> get is that they break off easily and machine shops hate you for
> getting them stuck in there once you bring the block to them.
>
> I tried a set of "stud puller" sockets that would grab on but didn't
> turn the bolt. Like the vise grips, it just slowly spun around the
> broken bolt.
>
> I've been told try penetrating oil, whack it lightly a few times to
> loosen any grime helping to hold it in place, and heat the block to try
> to work it free. If that doesn't work I guess I'm pulling the
> engine...
> maybe it's time for that 1600 stroker after all! At least the head
> looks good (to me).
>
> Adam
> temporarily disabled '70 1600
>
>
> --- "C. Halsted" <chalsted@nycap.rr.com> wrote:
> > I have a 1600 block that the bolt broke off even with the surface of
> > the
> > block. I drilled it, used an easy-out, and the easy-out snapped off
> > level
> > with the top of the block also. where do I go now?
> >
> > Craig Halsted
>
>
> =====
> Adam
> '70 1600 SPL311-28181
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