Adam,
I had the same problem. We wound up using a detached hacksaw blade, which
worked pretty well for a one time deal.
The stock headers are a lot cheaper than the stock manifolds and easy to
come by.
Robin
P.S. Gordon Glasgow had a great suggestion, which I haven't tried yet. You
are going to have a few inches that you'll need to have a muffler shop
patch. Gordon recommended having them use flex pipe which will allow the
exhaust system to be adequately anchored without putting so much stress on
the header. Gordon, correct me if I translated that badly.
>From: Adam Bradley <ambradley@yahoo.com>
>Reply-To: Adam Bradley <ambradley@yahoo.com>
>To: datsun <datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net>
>Subject: Exhaust and other questions
>Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2001 10:17:13 -0700 (PDT)
>
>Some doofus muffler shop cut the flange off the end of the exhaust
>manifold and welded the downpipe directly onto it (P.O. before P.O.).
>What is the best (still inexpensive) tool to cut through the pipe?
>
>I'm buying a header because it's cracked anyway. Should I take the car
>to a good muffler shop and having them fabricate something or should I
>buy the exhaust from Rallye or another vendor? If through a vendor,
>any preferences (price, quality, ease of installation)?
>
>Rallye is a bit pricey ($450 or so for the exhaust system) and I'm not
>concerned about originality but do want quality and an attractive sound
>and tailpipe.
>
>Now for something completely different. What is a good replacement
>carb return spring?
>
>Finally, the '70 has a thingie (technical term there) on the intake
>manifold that prevents the car from going immediately to idle in third
>and fourth (or so I've been told). Two wires go to it; one is busted.
>Do I want this thing functional, or is it best left disabled?
>
>
>
>=====
>Adam
>'70 1600 SPL311-28181
>http://www.picturetrail.com/abend
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