Charlie, List
Actually there is another possibility -- unfortunately I know of this from
personal experience. On a '69 2000 and I assume other roadsters it is
possible to install the clutch throwout fork incorrectly so that it is not
positioned on the throwout bearing sleeve correctly. This results in a
clutch that almost disengages -- but not quite. If this has happened don't
wait too long to fix as it contributes to extreme wear on the "fingers" of
the clutch pressure plate. I continued to drive my car with a misbehaving
clutch for about 700 miles while trying to fix it by trying different
hydraulic cylinders and even trying a longer clutch adjustment rod. The
clutch "fingers" were almost worn through and I do not want to think of the
damage that could have occurred if I continued to drive.
Good Luck,
Jerry
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Charlie
Sent: Thursday, May 31, 2001 7:42 PM
To: Datsun Roadster Mailing List
Subject: 1500 Clutch Problem
I just finished rebuilding the engine in my 64 1500. Unfortunately, my first
test drive has shown that there is a problem with the clutch. The tranny
grinds in every gear including 1st. This is all from a stopped position in
idle with the clutch all the way in. The front shaft still spins even when
stopped with the clutch in. The slave travel is well within the .6 = .8 inch
tolerance. The hydraulics hold pressure and the pilot bushing is new and
lubricated. You can slow the spin down by pulling the stick back toward 2nd
gear and quickly pushing it into first. I think that this simply uses the
2nd gear synchro to slow the shaft down.
When driving the car, I can ease it into gears by using the throttle to
synchronize the gear speeds. Otherwise...ggggrrrrriiinnnndddd. :o(
Putting the clutch in takes all power off the drive train but the clutch is
not separating completely from the plates. I think that the clutch plate is
either warped or that the rebuilder muffed it. Has anyone experienced this
before. BTW, I did put a light coat of grease on the shaft to allow the
clutch free play between the pressure plate and the flywheel. Does anyone
think that this could be the problem. Someone suggested that I may have put
the thing in backwards. I may have but seriously doubt it. Oh well, better
get ready to pull the engine again.
To top it all off, the new rear main seal still drips oil in quantity. A
mechanic friend of mine suggested that partially rotate the seal halves so
that the cuts are offset from the joint where the cap joins the block.
Anyone ever try that?
Charlie Hubbard
1964 SPL310
Flower Mound, Texas
http://members.home.net/cehubbard/tdroc/
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