I'd like to contribute my .02 cents worth.. Feel free to correct if you
think this is wrong... IMHO
Forget about the alternator for a moment.. Your battery is capable of
providing way more than 30 or 60 or 90 amps.. The starter draw alone can be
in the neighborhood of 100+ amps.. That is why it is isolated from the
accessory circuits when cranking. Each circuit is fused based upon it's draw
from the battery, it is the power source. Take any one of these <unfused>
and short it to ground and you have a major meltdown, with or without the
alternator. The alternators job is to replenish the battery, period. It
should be fused with a fusible link to just below it's rated output capacity
so that if a short condition develops in any circuit or the battery it self
while the engine is running you won't short the alternator output to ground.
Richard
'69 2000
----Original Message Follows----
From: SRAPL311@aol.com
Reply-To: SRAPL311@aol.com
To: tcost@vvm.com, datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: 66 amp alternator
Date: Mon, 21 May 2001 15:08:07 EDT
A chain is only as strong as it's weakest link. A series circuit will only
carry a load of the lowest fuse. (If put in parallel the ratings are
additive.) The series is of value if you have reason to believe some of the
fuses may not protect at the rated amperage. You could run one wire from the
alternator directly to the battery; and secondary circuits from the battery
to different loads, with each circuit fused appropriately.
Larry
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