Fergus,
Use a torque wrench when reinstalling and plenty o'antiseize. Also get a
spare cotter pin as it's quite large and wasn't in any cotter pin set I
have. It's a 27mm nut.
While you may be able to get the nut off w/o an impact gun the hardest thing
is to keep the shaft from spinning while applying torque, with an impact gun
that's not a problem. Trust me. Same is true for replacing the pinion seal
and removing the nut. Trust me.
BTW, Check your ujoints while the shaft is off as they go bad and you may
want to replace those while the shaft is off just as a matter of
maintainence and piece of mind. REMEMBER to mark the
position/relationship of the components. Replacing the ujoints ain't fun and
unless you have a large vice may be almost impossible after 30 years of
rust. I suggest to bring it to a shop and have them do it unless you have
access to a press. I broke my butt for several hours, but then I'm stubborn.
Mike
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ofarrell, Fergus" <Ofarrell.Fergus@hitco.com>
To: "'datsunmike'" <datsunmike@nyc.rr.com>; "'roadster.netlist'"
<datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, February 28, 2001 12:39 PM
Subject: RE: tranny rear seal tricks / details
> Mike has some very good points. thanks a ton.
> any idea what size socket for the big bolt? I am impact-wrench-less, so
> I'll need to gather all the pieces (aka the socket, the puller) before I
> start and then borrow the impact wrench for an afternoon.
> during the re-install, do I need to torque the nut back to a setting
> (probably so) for best results? (these I can borrow as well)
> thanks Mike,
> Fergus O
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: datsunmike [mailto:datsunmike@nyc.rr.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, February 27, 2001 4:08 PM
> To: Ofarrell, Fergus; 'roadster.netlist'
> Subject: Re: tranny rear seal tricks
>
> Get your impact wrench out, oil it up, and let it fly on the rear nut. I
> tried getting the nut off with a breaker bar but it was pretty well
frozen.
> Also a seal puller would help to get out the old one and a dirt the size
of
> the seal to drive the new one in. I like to grease up the outside of the
> seal for a smoother entry. Try to keep the seal as square as possible when
> driving it in.
>
> Boost up the car from the rear and you won't have to drain the tranny.
> Remember there's a cotter pin holding the nut on although with an imact
gun
> that would be ripped apart if you choose not to remove it, but then you'll
> have to get the little bits out.
>
> Remember to mark the relationship of the drive shaft.
>
> Mike
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