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Re: problem changing front shocks (quick and simple way)

To: Matt Peterson <pete_303@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: problem changing front shocks (quick and simple way)
From: "Eric R. Wittinger" <wittiner@ee.pdx.edu>
Date: Thu, 20 Apr 2000 08:45:48 -0700 (PDT)
A rather simple way to remove and replace the shocks and springs with out
any needed extra equipment follows (it works, I know since i just replaced
my shocks 3 weekes ago.)

It is simple to remove the origonal stock Nissan KYB shocks, they will
drop out of the hole that the lower mounting plate for the shocks
cover. There are a few problems with this approach though, one, the bolts
look rusted in place or are beat up, two and not quite as obvious untill
the
new shocks are being installed, is that the new shocks most likely will
have a larger diamater then the stock ones and will not fit up through the
holes (this was my case). Also a note, the 3 small bolts that hold the
lower cover plate that holds the shocks in, are threaded into what looks
like a brass aloy nut.

Okay so how do you get the new shocks in?? 
First unbolt the shock! (top and bottom)
Well the simplest way seems to
be to remove the 4 bolts on the upper A-arm. These 4 bolts have (a stock
one that hasn't been messed with before) a metal tab bent up to keep
the bolt from backing out. So bend these metal tabs back and take out the
bolts. (Of course you have to remove the wheel first and have the front of
the car jacked up.) Be careful when all of the bolts are out, this will
allow the lower A-arm to drop (which has the wheel hub attached, it is
heavy). You might have to tap the upper A-arm with a rubber hammer to get
it to pop the ball joint free and allow the lower A-arm to drop.
(no need for a spring compressor, the spring is not in compression, at
least mine was not, so the peices do expload with the force of a
compressed spring.)

Now it is rather simple to remove the shock and spring.  I had to pry the
spring free, the top seemed to be stuck, it turned out to be a rubber
space, bushing, to keep the spring from rattling around, and it was stuck
to the metal.  With a little prying force it popped free not problem.

Now you do you best to get the spring and shock out.  I found it easier to
undo the sway-bar mount on the A-arm (one little bolt/screw), and let the
sway-bar be free of the Lower A-arm (move the
sway-bar end above the lower A-arm, this let the Lower A-arm drop a
littler futher down and made getting the spring and shock in and out much
easier.)

A point to be stressed pre compressing the shock and holding that way
with a wire is recomented otherwise it isa battle of compress the shock 
and see how fast you
can put the shock in the center of the spring and get both inbetween the
lower A-arm and the uper spring mount. This method is not easy but can be
done, but is frustrating. 

Okay you are almost done at this point bolt in the shock on th bottom and
then move up the lower A-arm and bolt the top into place it doesn't have
to be tight just enoguht to hold it in place. (make sure all of those
washers and nice new stiff bushings are in their proper place). Now you
can lift the lower A-arm up and repalce the 4 bolts you took out, not
forgetting the metal locking tabs.  Then re-mount the sway-bar end, haha,
I
say that such ease, it is not easy and will take a alittle figuring. I
ended up lining up the rubber mount with the sway-bar end in it in its
proper location and then put the jack under the
lower A-arm and jacked it up so there was less tension on the saw-bar
and it fit into its mounting position easier.  (if the text there didn't
make much sence, it will when you get to this point.)

Now make sure eveything is tight, and move on over to the other side. 

Hope this helps, and it should make things much easier.

Also you do not need to have the car re-aligned after wards. Just go for a
test drive to make sure everything feels perfect.

Any question on this feel free to ask away.

Eric
| Eric R Wittinger                             |
| Pacific Northwest National Laboratory        |
| NSD Radiological and Chemical Sciences Group |
| Web page            www.ee.pdx.edu/~wittiner |
| Email               wittiner@EE.pdx.edu      |
| Email (work)        Eric.Wittinger@pnl.gov   |
------------------------------------------------

On Wed, 19 Apr 2000, Matt Peterson wrote:

> Hello everyone,
> 
> I have run into a slight problem while replacing my shocks.  The back one's 
> went on fine but the front one's are giving me some problems.  I first tried 
> to take the piece off that holds the shock in from the bottom but the bolts 
> were so corroded that I didn't want to attempt it.  So I pulled off the 
> whole bottom triangular looking piece that supports the spring also.  Well 
> everything is all ready to be put back together but I can't get the 
> triangular piece to line up with the four holes to get the bolts through.  
> It seems that the triangular piece is getting wedged in before it gets lined 
> up with the holes.  It could possibly be that the spring is causing it also.
> 
> Am I making any sense?
> 
> If so and you have any advice I would greatly apprieciate it.
> 
> Thanks,
> Matt Peterson
> 68 1600
> Zimmerman, MN
> 


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