>
> Hello everybody,
>
> I've been away from the list for a couple of years. Seems like I put my
> life on hold for Y2K. After two years of converting accounting software, I
> need some high RPM shifts and high G corners with the top down!!
Welcome back!
>
> I have a 1970 2000 that needs a little attention to get it ready. Car was
> redone with a frame off restore about 7 years ago, but there are a few items
> that need attention before it can be used as a daily driver. It has about
> 4000 miles on it since the restoration. It's not a collector car, since
> serial #s don't match. Original engine put a rod through the block. I want
> to use it as my good weather car, for daily driving.
>
> Problems:
>
> Worn throttle shaft on the SU's. Carbs have never been right. Rough idle.
> It runs out of air long before redline. I'm thinking about options.
> Rebuilt carbs? Where from? Upgrade to Solexes? How about fuel injection?
> <G>
>
> Lights dim above 4000 RPM. I got a suggestion that its the voltage
> regulator vibrating? Rebuilt alternator is installed. It's charging the
> battery fine.
Try putting some rubber vibration isolators between the regulator and the body,
that should
take care of it.
>
> Smog pump is on car to get it through CA smog check. I've since moved to
> Kansas City. Is it worth removing?
>
> Fuel gauge is not working. How do I check the sender to see if it's the
> sender or the gauge?
If the '69 wiring is the same as my 67.5, there are a number of things to
check.
If your oil pressure gauge is electric, does it work? If not, then the
INSTRIMENT
voltage regulator is bad or disconnected. It is a small rectangular box
attached
to the Right side of the steering column, just behind the dash. It has 2 wires
connected to it and the box must be grounded. One lead will have battery
voltage
on it and the other one will be pulsing between 0 and battery voltage every
second
or so. (Depending on your meter you may just see fluctuations in the voltage,
not
getting to zero, or battery voltage).
The Gauge has 2 leads on it, one to the tank sender and one to the instrument
regulator.
If you can get the cover over the tank sender off, try grounding the lead that
goes
into the fuel tank. If the gauge goes to full, check to be sure that the
sender is
grounded. If it is, the sender in the tank is defective. If not, you will
have to
get into the dash and check the gauge. There should be the same pulsating
voltage
on one connection on the gauge and, with the sender connected, a lower pulsating
voltage. If there is no voltage on the tank connection, the gauge is open. If
all looks well, try grounding the sender connection at the gauge. You should
get a full
reading. If there is no voltage at the gauge and the regulator shows pulses,
then you have
a bad connecton between the regulator and the gauge. If grounding the tank
sender (at the tank)
doesn't do anything, but grounding it at the gauge gives a full reading, then
there is an
bad connection or open between the gauge and the tank. Most problems with
electrical
systems in our cars is caused by loose/dirty connections.
>
> Tires are getting dry rot. Were old when put on car. It's got Panasport
> wheels. How big a tire can you get under a roadster with stock fenders.
> It's been lowered an inch. What tire for street use? How about autocross?
>
> Biggest problem is transmission. It has never downshifted to second without
> grinding. Previous owner had it apart and put new syncros in. I think I
> will have it done by someone who knows Roadster transmissions, since I have
> to pull the engine! I don't want to do it twice. I have a spare
> transmission of unknown condition, so I could have it done and do the whole
> thing in one weekend. What about clutch and flywheel. Any benefit to
> upgrading?
Sometimes grinding when shifting is not caused by the trans, rather by the
clutch.
Does it go into reverse without grinding? If not, the clutch is not releasing
completely.
This could be because of hydraulic problems, a warped clutch disk, a defective
pressure plate,
or a pilot bushing that is either galled, or old grease that is set up. All of
these
will require the engine/trans to be removed.
>
> I need a new top and interior trim for behind the seats, and I want to put
> in a roll bar with 4 point harness, or something better than the seat belts
> in it now. Any suggestions?
>
> I've had nagging electrical problems. Wiring harness wasn't changed. It's
> mostly just oxidation and loose connections.
>
> I want to upgrade the ignition. Seems like I remember something about a
> swap with a late model electronic unit? Any recommendations.
>
> Anybody found a good way to put high quality sound in without sacrificing
> the glove compartment?
You can always go to a remote radio that mounts in the trunk and uses either a
wireless or wired remote.
>
> Dash is cracked. Is there a repro dash for a 70 or am I stuck with a dash
> cover?
>
> Anybody know where I can find a LS Differential? Has anyone swapped the
> axle to something with LSD?
>
> I know this is a long list, but what Roadster owner doesn't have one?
> Anybody in the Kansas City area?
>
>
> Sincerely,
>
> Dave Driemeier
>
>
Peace,
Pat
--
- Support Habitat for Humanity, A "hand up", not a "hand out" -
Pat Horne, Network Manager, Shop Supervisor, Hardware Guru
CS Dept, University of Texas, Austin, Tx. 78712 USA
voice (512)471-9517, fax (512)471-8885, UUCP:cs.utexas.edu!horne
|